If you want to help, you may want to tone down the attitude.

 

If that imply's to me I didn't mean to have an attitude at least I didn't type it that way and if it comes off that way erase it for me. I do not want to make anyone mad....I am sorry if I offended anyone just a guy spending a fortune on a truck and it's kinda like wheel of fortune when they get enough letters open to guess the phrase well I had the answer just wanted to get it out there for him/her. Thats all

 

I can definitely understand, however, the first line can make it sound otherwise.

 

Your rite I went in and did an edit so that should sound better and again no disrespect intended there and sorry if there was some taken

 

i haven't really "dumped" that much money into the truck probably about $30 or so for clean the injectors and get new plugs. i havn't verified the leak down. i bought the book and see why he couldn't find the regulator. and as far as the switch goes, if you are talking about the key cylender witch is what it sounds like from it not coming out of park. mine is perfectly fine, other than i had to switch to the second key cause the primary was worn out causeing the cylender to be hard to turn.(but for some odd reason my girl is able to use the old key without any problem.) if you are talking about the electronic part of the switch. it seems fine as well. however, with blazer electrical problems as bad as the internet makes it out to be it very well could be. but when the truck warms up, it runs perfect. i am gonna take it to Firestone next week and they are gonna look it over for me really good free of charge. (i am a commercial parts delivery driver so they are hooking me up). I think im gonna buy a Ranger. i can work on ford's all day long, and never have this much damn trouble. im gonna check out the diy pressure check article

 

i just said forget it and put the truck in the shop.time to let the ASE guys handle it, im sick of it. they are gonna go through it with a fine tooth comb. once this is dealt with i will post the final diagnosis and the results of the tests.

 

I am sorry that you had to take it in. Hopefully they will find the issue and remedy it. Thank you for keeping us informed!! It is always nice to have someone let the rest of us know what ultimately fixes the problem.

 

final diagnosis.... they don't know. the truck ran excellent for them!! now i can't make it jerk or anything. it did it once this morning and not the rest of the day. however sometimes it will idle a bit rough. mechanic said that the fuel pump could be having an intermittent problem. i don't know. he said it would take a long time to check the injectors out and the regulator would cause it to be hard to start. well. the only thing i can do now is wait for it to break down. so when it does ill post what it is. until then i guess i am done with it. thats all i can do i believe. no point in throwing money at attempts to fix a problem. it would be a waste. and can't enjoy the truck when im constantly worrying about it. anyway. happy new year everyone.

 

Yes, My 1998 blazer was doing that exact same thing but only around 50-55, which is usually when it was shifting, and one day it just died on me. I thought at first it was the tranny, then maybe a bad cv joint, or even the bad wheel bearing that I have. I went blew close to $400 on senors and even a fuel pump only to realize that the cap and rotor that only had less than 8k on it had quit, even though it still looked brand new. If you haven't changed that yet, I would start there, Alot cheaper and easier than an ignition switch, and it probly hasn't been done in a while, and even if it has, like I said, less than 8k and mine had already quit. I don't remember the truck stalling or shuddering like yours is doing when my ignition switch died, but it only would not start one day, then start the next, and we lost all of the dash lights and the compass/ temp light. I don't know if it is any help, but hopefully you figure it out if you haven't already.

 

My 97 Blazer did the same thing. On Thanksgiving 2006 it started jerking and missing. I checked many things and finally found the distributor cap had burnt plastic between No. 1 and No. 2 cylinders(on the inside of cap) and was jumping spark between the two. I noticed it after a couple different times of taking the cap off and inspecting it. I used a trouble light to find it. I put a new cap and rotor on. Thanksgiving day of 2007 it started doing the same thing, not that many miles later either, because I usually only drive it on weekends. The cap was burnt in the same spot. I bought a good one this time. The screws stripped out a little and it jerks some times when it's wet out, only for about the first 10 minutes. Now it's winter and runs good right from the start. Anyone have any ideas how to seal it better? Also, check your coil wire in the dark. Rev up motor, maybe even spray a mist of water on wire, and see if it's jumping spark there.