So! My AC went out so much that the clutch is shooting sparks. I got a new pump in that didn't have the pressure switch. So I got a pressure switch and put it in. The new pump will NOT engage the clutch at all. It's filled to 50psi and everything is connected. My question is, on the back where the pressure switch goes there is a hole, does one of the two holes on the switch NEED TO line up with that hole? Old AC pump worked but just threw metal and sparks everywhere... This one does not even engage.

 

134a refrigerant has a pressure of 80-90 psi with ambient temps in the 80's so something is wrong with your system pressure.

Did you open the system and if so did you evacuate it before charging?


George

 

I'm reading the pressure off the recharge canister. It is just on the green and yellow line. I recharged the old one and it worked fine just threw metal and sparks everywhere when the clutch kicked it. I checked all fuses and those pressure sensors which read below 1.5 ohms

 

I yield this thread, hope you get sorted.

George

 

Ok - I'll give it a quick shot and see if there is any hope for understanding.

Obviously original compressor shelled and locked up. Typical novice response is to replace the compressor, fill it with freon, and it might work part of one season before compressor locks up again. What is needed is a complete flush of crap out of the system, followed by replacement of dessicant and extensive evacuation with a vacuum pump. At that point you add the proper amount of proper refrigerant oil into various locations (including new compressor). If you need a switch in the back of the compressor to hook up to the vehicle wiring harness - then transfer it from the old pump. If it doesn't fit then wrong compressor. Only then are you ready to add freon.

 

General question. I'm new to these forums and can't ask a question with a question... is the A/C Clutch throwing literal sparks, like bearing issue. Cheap Part.... Brand new Compressor? Model and type of Compressor fit the Vehicle? PAG oiled and cycled before install? High and Low Side Switches have Voltage Reference? 5V reference is my go to... anyway. Possible clogged ports for low pressure. 50 is a bit on the Yellow meaning over pressure on the Advance Cheap Gauge (it works) but if referring to a manifold gauge.... Easiest way to sort. Mind if I ask, new Accumulator, Orifice Tube, and Or Condenser? Hate to ask for parts thrown in.... Pressures would be low due to inconsistencies (Clogged port). Low Side gets cold but not frost over, high side is hot to touch.... should work. A grenaded compressor is lack of lubricant and or over pressure. On Advance Auto, Freon Gauge would be 35 visual in green then the functioning clutch should cycle in DiY standard. Manifold Gauge: 75-90 Low 175-225 High.... Google is this correct?... Fixated on the Clutch sparks. UV light? Potential leaks? Compressor bearing and or front seal?
Plus or minus fact check on numerics. A/C system is simple. Ensure High Low Pressure lines properly seated with new gaskets... my 99 4.3 has a Clutch plug in with a 2 pin one way connection.... I'm game. Let's play. Fix these cars. Can't have a fellow Blazer sweat bullets in this heat.