2000 4x4 rear brake problems
#1
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Got a 2000 4x4 182,000 miles just changed rotors and pads........notice a weird smell coming from drivers side and are extremely hot had parking brake light come on but will go off if I pump brakes until I hit brakes then light......brakes are kinda mushy...CALIPERS???
#2
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Sorry they are the rear brakes and the e-brake doesn't appear to be on should I change calipers or is their something else I need to look at
#3
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Got a 2000 4x4 182,000 miles just changed rotors and pads........notice a weird smell coming from drivers side and are extremely hot had parking brake light come on but will go off if I pump brakes until I hit brakes then light......brakes are kinda mushy...CALIPERS???
When the calipers get hot, the old contaminated brake fluid will boil and cause minute bubbles of air in the system that causes mushy brake pedal.
Replacing both rear calipers and bleeding/flushing old brake fluid should fix it.
The rear brake hoses (3 total) on the Blazers also deteriorate and can cause restriction in the flow of fluid that can cause the calipers to not release easily. This is harder to troubleshoot so most replace hoses when this occurs.
#4
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Where are the hoses located and are they a hard fix
#5
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did your calipers go in easily? what color is your fluid? like bromanjr mention could be old crummy fluid thats not to spec. your brake hoses are the black rubber lines that attach to the calipers. ive never come across brake hoses that are plugged but have seen them swell and crack. if your calipers are moving easily and your brake hoses look to be in good shape than i would flush and bleed the brake fluid.
#6
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No the caliper on the drivers side didn't go in easily how do I flush the old fluid?????? basically caliper by caliper?????or just the back ....just looked at the brake fluid...and its pretty black means its burnt right?????
#7
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yea its time for a flush and replace that bad caliper. if you havent done a flush before than you might want to send it to a shop to get it done or search "how to bleed brakes" its the same thing.
The basic's are open the bleders let it drain while topping up master with new fluid to keep it from running dry, when clear fluid is present at bleeders close them. with an assitand get them to pump the brakes and one by one go around and open the bleeders to get out any air that may have gotten in the system.
search on here or google for a step by step guide on how to bleed brakes.
The basic's are open the bleders let it drain while topping up master with new fluid to keep it from running dry, when clear fluid is present at bleeders close them. with an assitand get them to pump the brakes and one by one go around and open the bleeders to get out any air that may have gotten in the system.
search on here or google for a step by step guide on how to bleed brakes.
#8
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I believe I can handle that....hell I changed rotors and pads sounds fairly easy just don't let the master run dry
#9
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pretty much you can buy cheap one man bleeder kits from parts stores for less than $30
#10
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Changed everything on both sides I am not getting fluid to the rear........I keep pumping and pumping but nothing do I keep pumping no leaks anywhere fluid going down slow after pumping if lines were clogged would build pressure right? Maybe clogged master cylinder? ?????