I just thought I'd have gotten some B codes if the Passlock system had failed.

 

You're correct, Passlock will give "U" or "B" codes when a component has failed, (key word being "failed"). As far as Passlock is concerned, the sensor didn't fail. Passlock has no way of "knowing" that the sensor has amnesia It trusts the sensor and disables the injectors. Your clue that something is wrong, is that the warning light is on, and it's up to you to figure out what the problem is.

 

Lol. I like you. I figured that the light was flashing because it was failing to start, but I really have no idea at this point. I built a resistor for the proper ohm reading, and I'm about to try and bypass the PASSLOCK to see if it is messing with me without throwing a code. The problem is when customer brought it to me, the battery was dead from them trying to start it over and over, so the PASSLOCK security light may just be on because of the battery dying. I am trying to not get too frustrated over this right now.

 

I measured the resistance and bypassed the PASSLOCK system, still does the exact same thing. I am confused. What else could cut off injector pulse?

 

Measuring the resistance of the pellet in the key on PasskeyI and PasskeyII worked well, but Passlock is a whole different animal and tougher to fool.

With the ignition in the RUN position, all of the pink wires at the injector harness plug must show battery voltage. Make sure it doesn't drop out when the engine stalls. Ground is supplied by the PCM to open the injectors. The crankshaft position sensor generates the pulse used for both ignition and injectors. If there's a problem with the CKP sensor getting its signal to the PCM, a DTC will be set in memory. Using a noid light on these injectors is not recommended. You can use a DVOM, or better yet, watch injector pulse width on a scan tool. If it drops out, and then the engine stalls, you know you're on the right track. But if it stalls and then the pulse drops out, that's normal and it's something else causing the problem.

 

Used a DVOM and there is voltage at all of the pink wires, as well as the other wires on that connector oddly enough. Don't have any codes and don't know if it's stalling or not, because it hasn't ever started in my presence.

 

If all of the wires show battery voltage while cranking, (with the harness connected to the injectors) the PCM is not grounding the injector circuits inside the PCM, and the injectors will remain closed. That's what happens when Passlock disables them.

 

Got any threads on bypassing the passlock? I'm beyond frustrated now. You know, whole day of work and no money made...I need to get this fixed. I need to bypass the passlock, again, because apparently I didn't do it correctly the first time. So you're with me that it's the passlock and nothing else would be doing this?

Keep in mind the security light is NOT flashing while cranking. When key is turned on, it illuminates for five seconds then goes out, then disappears while cranking, then returns when ignition is turned off, and flashes for ten minutes at a time.

 

I'm retarded. All that work was for nothing, clearly. I don't know why I didn't try before, seeing as there were no codes. I sat in the drivers seat and pressed the door lock button, and the security light immediately stopped flashing and stayed illuminated. This indicates, as far as the knowledge I have, that nothing to do with the passlock system is disabling the fuel injectors.

What else could possibly be turning them off?

 

Any chance this thing has an aftermarket remote start or alarm system? That stuff can take a dump without warning. Depending on the circuitry, they either disable the fuel pump, starter, or the ignition.

Are you absolutely sure the injectors are not pulsing? Did you back probe with a DVOM at the harness connector while cranking? There are 6 pink wires and 6 other colors. Each injector has its own ground wire. You can unplug the connector and probe the grounds, but it has to be cranking.

Crazier things have been known to happen... did you check for a blue spark at each plug wire, and at the coil wire while cranking? Aftermarket distributor caps and rotors are a known failure that can keep it from starting.