2000 Blazer ABS light
#1
2000 Blazer ABS light
hello this is my first thread. im having a problem in my Blazer i just got last week. when i got the truck the ABS light was on, i investigated the issue a little further and discovered the fuse was pulled and the wires were cut on the passenger side. i replaced the sensor and fuse and now the light is off until i drive it, once i put it in drive it comes on at 5-10 mph. the light goes off in the next key cycle and will stay off until i drive it again. it will run in park all day long and no lights. i took the driver side apart to try and clean the sensor but i damaged the sensor and am now in the process of replacing that one too. are there any other suggestions?
#3
72 views not a single reply? surely somebody here knows something
#4
ABS does a self test each time you turn the ignition to the RUN position. Everything except the speed sensor circuits is checked. When the vehicle is put in motion, the self test checks the speed sensors and their circuits. If there's a problem, the ABS light comes on. You'll need a scan tool capable of retrieving ABS codes to find out which circuit or sensor has a problem.
#5
ABS does a self test each time you turn the ignition to the RUN position. Everything except the speed sensor circuits is checked. When the vehicle is put in motion, the self test checks the speed sensors and their circuits. If there's a problem, the ABS light comes on. You'll need a scan tool capable of retrieving ABS codes to find out which circuit or sensor has a problem.
Last edited by sky_blazer; 08-27-2013 at 12:37 PM.
#6
i just looked and does it matter if the sensors are not located in the same respective position on the hub? on the passenger side its facing the front headlight on the driver side its pointing down. they are still bolted in perfectly just not in the same spot as the other
#7
If your Blazer is 4WD, it is not recommended to replace just the sensor, the entire hub assembly should be replaced. The installed depth of the sensor tip is critical: too far in and it will destroy the sensor, too far out and it will not work. If it's off ~.002" it will be a problem.
The first part of the self test checks the electrical circuits for power, ground, open or short circuits, etc. If everything passes, the light stays off. When the vehicle reaches ~5MPH, the sensors and their circuits are checked and the pump is momentarilly activated, (if you listen very carefully you can hear it). If the second part of the test passes, the light stays off. The system is continuously monitored while driving and if there's a problem, the light comes on immediately and a DTC is set in memory.
The first part of the self test checks the electrical circuits for power, ground, open or short circuits, etc. If everything passes, the light stays off. When the vehicle reaches ~5MPH, the sensors and their circuits are checked and the pump is momentarilly activated, (if you listen very carefully you can hear it). If the second part of the test passes, the light stays off. The system is continuously monitored while driving and if there's a problem, the light comes on immediately and a DTC is set in memory.
#8
If your Blazer is 4WD, it is not recommended to replace just the sensor, the entire hub assembly should be replaced. The installed depth of the sensor tip is critical: too far in and it will destroy the sensor, too far out and it will not work. If it's off ~.002" it will be a problem.
The first part of the self test checks the electrical circuits for power, ground, open or short circuits, etc. If everything passes, the light stays off. When the vehicle reaches ~5MPH, the sensors and their circuits are checked and the pump is momentarilly activated, (if you listen very carefully you can hear it). If the second part of the test passes, the light stays off. The system is continuously monitored while driving and if there's a problem, the light comes on immediately and a DTC is set in memory.
The first part of the self test checks the electrical circuits for power, ground, open or short circuits, etc. If everything passes, the light stays off. When the vehicle reaches ~5MPH, the sensors and their circuits are checked and the pump is momentarilly activated, (if you listen very carefully you can hear it). If the second part of the test passes, the light stays off. The system is continuously monitored while driving and if there's a problem, the light comes on immediately and a DTC is set in memory.
#9
I had the ABS light on the dash "light up" on mine yesterday so this is a timely thread for me. A couple of questions: Is it possible for the sensor to "go blind" from dirt / grease? If so, will a cleaning possibly remedy the problem? Where exactly is the sensor located? It appears the brake caliper needs to be removed to get at it. True? What sort of prices are we talking about for hub replacement? (ball park)If you had to replace one, it would seem to make sense to replace both at the same time as a preventive maint. action. As a side question; How much resistance to rotation should there be in the rotation of front brake rotor on the truck? (4X4) Mine seems to be pretty tight and it does not seem to be from brake drag.
#10
I had the ABS light on the dash "light up" on mine yesterday so this is a timely thread for me. A couple of questions: Is it possible for the sensor to "go blind" from dirt / grease? If so, will a cleaning possibly remedy the problem? Where exactly is the sensor located? It appears the brake caliper needs to be removed to get at it. True? What sort of prices are we talking about for hub replacement? (ball park)If you had to replace one, it would seem to make sense to replace both at the same time as a preventive maint. action. As a side question; How much resistance to rotation should there be in the rotation of front brake rotor on the truck? (4X4) Mine seems to be pretty tight and it does not seem to be from brake drag.