Hi guys,

I just made my first post a few days ago here and you guys were very helpful. So, I'm back again looking for a bit more insight on another issue that seems to be developing with the Blazer I bought a few weeks ago.

It is a 2000 2DR with the ZR2 suspension package. It has 142,000 miles.

It appears like it may have sat for a few months before I bought it from a local dealer, kind of wheel & deal place. I bought it because it ran good and I needed 4WD.

About three weeks ago I was driving down the road doing ~40MPH and the truck died. It died soft, and I was able to coast into a parking lot. It is worth mentioning at this time I had a CEL for code P0446 Evaporative emission system vent control circuit.

After safely coasting into the parking lot I tried to start the truck and it would crank, but it would not start. After a few tries, it started for a quick second, then would stall again. It did this about 15 times on and off, just cranking, then cranking and starting for 1-2 seconds and dying.

I let the truck sit for a while then came back to it. It started and I was able to get it back home.

Fast forward to today, it's a little bit of a colder day out in NJ and we have some snow. I was going to Auto Zone to get some parts, and the truck will just crank and crank and will not start.

I am going to Auto Zone to get a fuel pressure tester.

I'm wondering how I can pinpoint whether my issue will be:

1) Fuel pump (it does prime when turning the key ON and OFF.)

2) Fuel filter (do I use the fuel pressure tester on the line between the filter and pump?)

3) Fuel pressure regulator

4) Fuel spider? (This is not something I am familiar with)

Anything else I am missing?

I cleared the P0446 code hoping that it was the gas cap, it's been about 30 something miles since then and here's where I am today.

Any help would be much appreciated. I am supposed to be purchasing a trailer tomorrow and the only way I can tow it is with this Blazer.

Thanks guys.

 

Quick reply. It's been about 20 minutes since I went back out to try to start the truck. It cranked about 3 times audibly and then started but it was a slower start then kind of fired up.

I need to resolve this issue though because obviously no one wants to be stranded anywhere. Especially because this vehicle's main purpose is to tow snowmobiles four hours away and I don't want to get stranded in that kind of scenario.

 

Make sure the fuel gage is bled then it's key on engine off ten min's then post results.

That died at 40mph sounds alot like an ignition switch, did you notice if you got an abs light before it died?

Oh yea, start at the fuel test port to the right of the distributor before you start rigging stuff to the filter.

 

I have had the ABS light on. If you search my post history I have had an ABS light on since I changed the wheel speed sensor RF side, replaced rear pads, rotors, and calipers, then bled the brakes.

After that, my ABS light has been on.

I have heard of the passkey system but wasn't sure if that was it as well.

I will search how to bleed the fuel gauge. I have never heard of doing that before.

 

Connect the pressure tester and cycle the pump a few times, that will bleed the air out. As spittybays mentioned, key ON, engine OFF, fuel pump running: pressure must be 60psi to 66psi and must remain above 55psi for at least 10 minutes. When you initially turn the ignition to the RUN position, the pump will activate for ~2 seconds and shut off. Pressure must be tested while the pump is running. Post your results before buying any parts.

 

I just want to be sure that this is the correct adapter I should be using. None of the adapters will screw onto the schrader valve that is on the truck.

I can remove the schrader valve and insert this adapter, then screw the pressure tester to this brass adapter, correct?

Do I need to worry about any residual fuel pressure when I remove the schrader valve that's on the truck now? Will I develop air in the fuel system?

 

Are you using the steel fitting on the driver side of the distributor? If so sounds like you got a funky tester. Should thread onto the port and dribble some fuel out, then tighten up. Was this from AZ? (not surprising), try another store.

 

EDIT:

Yep I sure am an idiot. Was looking at the diagram I found backwards. Was on the passenger side EVAP.

Pressure tested the truck, cycled the pump several times before pressure testing it.

Results:

5:49 - 56PSI
5:41 - 52 PSI
5:42 - 50 PSI
5:43 - 48 PSI
5:44 - 45 PSI
5:45 - 43 PSI
5:46 - 42 PSI
5:47 - 40 PSI
5:48 - 39 PSI
5:49 - 38 PSI

That's a big drop...

 

What is pressure while the pump is running?
What is the pressure 10 minutes after the pump shuts off?

(See post #5)

 

I am going back out to re-do the test.