nn,

Any idea what the fuel pressure reading was?

Also I had a similar problem a couple of years ago. I had a wrench that fallen down and intermitently shorting between the hot wire on the starter and the frame. It would be as if I had turned the key off and would started right back up. You might inspect your hot wire very carefully from your battery to your starter. If it has a bare spot, it could cause the same thing. I also think that it could be the ignition switch. I changed mine b4 I found the real problem. Somewhere I read that the ign. switch going bad is kind of common for these.

I am not sure if yours just stalls like it is running out of fuel or quits suddenly like the key was turned off?

 

I have a 2000 w/ 4 wheel drive. The fuel pump and filter are about a year old. It now stumbles and almost cuts off when starting out. When the key is turned on the pressure goes to 60 PSI but drops back to zero after 2 seconds. Just put in a new pressure regulator but it did not help. Any help out there?

 

Your leakdown is excessive, and pressure is borderline fail. Next step is modify the fuel pressure tester so it connects directy to the fuel filter outlet. All fuel pressure and flow must end at the pressure tester. Activate the fuel pump by installing a jumper wire from battery positive to the fuel pump prime terminal in the underhood fuse panel, (ignition off).



After fuel pressure stabilizes, it must be 73psi to 108psi. Remove the jumper wire and pressure must remain above 55psi for at least 10 minutes. Post your results. The results will tell if the problem is in the tank or in the plenum.

 

I don't know if you have fixed your starting problem yet or not. These posts are never dated. Anyway, I have a '96 LT with the exact symptoms - before and after a fuel pump replzcement. By accident, I found that changing the distributor cap and rotor, oddly enough, resolves my starting problem. But the pay-back is that I need to replace the cap and rotor more frequently than "usual". I do have a couple of electrical issues and I'll soon find out if they are all interrelated.

If you have resolved your starting problem, please get back to me and let me in on it.

 

I don't know if you have fixed your starting problem yet or not. These posts are never dated. Anyway, I have a '96 LT with the exact symptoms - before and after a fuel pump replacement. By accident, I found that changing the distributor cap and rotor, oddly enough, resolves my starting problem. But the pay-back is that I need to replace the cap and rotor more frequently than "usual". I do have a couple of electrical issues and I'll soon find out if they are all interrelated.

If you have resolved your starting problem, please get back to me and let me in on it.

 

A combination of three things cause this: 1) Using a cap and rotor other than AC Delco. 2) Incorrect camshaft retard, and 3)Failure to put silicone dielectric grease on each terminal, (inside and out) of the distributor cap. Using AC Delco parts and the grease is self explanatory. Checking and adjusting camshaft retard requires a scan tool capable of accessing the data stream, (the el cheapo $500 jobbies won't do it).

 

Yeah, I did fix the problem. It was the fuel pump.

Unfortunately I found this to be a constant problem on this car. Between 2010-2012 I had to replace the fuel pump 3 times. The first one was an el-cheapo from eBay, it lasted about 7 months. The next two were OEM Delco fuel pumps and they each lasted about a year.

 

Got a 1996 Blazer and it looks like it is the same thing. I highly recommend spending the extra money on products with lifetime warranties....it has saved my keister a couple of times so far with just this vehicle.