2001 Blazer Air Conditioning Problem
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 4

Took my 2dr, RW/dr 2001 Blazer LS, in for air conditioning recharge. However, the tech said in only took in less than a can of coolant and the air wouldn't get cold. Tech stated it appears that I have some sort of compressor problem. Any suggestions my blazer comrades?
Last edited by dannydblazer; 08-15-2010 at 06:43 AM. Reason: to be more accurate with the description of my blazer
#2
Starting Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 197

What was the reason you took it in for a recharge? Was your A/c working at all?
These A/C systems don't hold very much r134a refridgerant, so what your tech says seems accurate.
These A/C systems don't hold very much r134a refridgerant, so what your tech says seems accurate.
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 4

I took it in for a recharge because it would blow cool air and warm air. So I figured it was due for more refrigerant. Yes, my a/c had been working fine. Is there a solution to this sort of problem that I could try myself before having to pay the costs surrounding compressor repairs?
#4
If it has too high of a charge, it could be tripping out on the high pressure switch.
#5
Starting Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 153

No offense, but that doesn't sound like a very good A/C tech. Did he use a set of proper gauges to see what the pressures are while the compressor is running?
One of your pressure switches may be stuck. You can safely jumper the electrical plugs to test the system (just don't run it like that continuously as a fix). High pressure switch is in back of the compressor and low pressure switch is by the low pressure charge port on the receiver/drier. Replacing the high side switch requires a tech to evacuate the system, replace the drier and orifice tube, vacuum the moisture, and charge system. I think the low side switch screws into a valve...
If there's a decent pressure difference while running, the compressor is fine. If there's no pressure difference with compressor running and system is charged, then yeah, you need a compressor and probably condenser & a/c hoses. If the difference is so big it trips out one of the pressure cutoffs, you might have a clogged orifice tube.
Might need to have a tech evacuate the system and replace the receiver/drier ($15-20) before vacuuming the system dry and adding fresh 1.8lbs of freon (I think that's the right amount, the tech should have reference documents). While the system is discharged, definitely replace the orifice tube ($2). If the orifice screen is littered with metal shavings, then you may need compressor+hoses+condenser.
One of your pressure switches may be stuck. You can safely jumper the electrical plugs to test the system (just don't run it like that continuously as a fix). High pressure switch is in back of the compressor and low pressure switch is by the low pressure charge port on the receiver/drier. Replacing the high side switch requires a tech to evacuate the system, replace the drier and orifice tube, vacuum the moisture, and charge system. I think the low side switch screws into a valve...
If there's a decent pressure difference while running, the compressor is fine. If there's no pressure difference with compressor running and system is charged, then yeah, you need a compressor and probably condenser & a/c hoses. If the difference is so big it trips out one of the pressure cutoffs, you might have a clogged orifice tube.
Might need to have a tech evacuate the system and replace the receiver/drier ($15-20) before vacuuming the system dry and adding fresh 1.8lbs of freon (I think that's the right amount, the tech should have reference documents). While the system is discharged, definitely replace the orifice tube ($2). If the orifice screen is littered with metal shavings, then you may need compressor+hoses+condenser.
Last edited by helo; 08-13-2010 at 05:16 PM.
#6
Beginning Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 17

Mine was cycling on and off causing a miss feeling while driving. It was the pressure switch on the back of the silver can (dont know the name). I replaced it and it works right all the time. Just something to note.
Justin
Justin
#7
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 4

To 1998MSO, Swartlkk, helo, and Surgin, Thanks for your input!
#8
Starting Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1

Thanks for the posts. I was having air conditioning problems for about a year, then it eventually went out all together. I checked fuses and the relay. I was thinking I was going to have to replace the whole compressor. Then I saw the post about jumping the connections on the switches. The switch on the reserve tank is easy to switch. It has a peacock valve so not much freon will leak out. $11 fix.
#9
helo is absolutely right. Do everything he suggests, especially the orifice tube. Also, replace all o-rings while you have it apart, and flush all hoses and coils to get trash out. Then, re-assemble, evacuate, charge, (two $10 cans 134A).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
akustom57
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
1
06-04-2010 07:18 AM
littleblueblazer
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
3
05-24-2009 04:14 PM
DrThorsen
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
3
04-14-2008 10:46 AM







