2001 Blazer LT - No Start | No Crank
#1
2001 Blazer LT - No Start | No Crank
Hello all, firstly thanks in advance for any help on this topic.
Firstly, I've searched this forum thoroughly before going forward with this post, in fact some of my thread finds are the reasons for the troubleshooting I've done up to this point.
Here's my problem - For a while, I've been having an issue where I can turn my key to the start/crank position and nothing happens. I have full electronic power at the dash and I can hear the fuel pump engage (Replaced pump a little over a year ago). The problem is totally random, meaning I can start my truck at any given time and it fires up perfectly, I can drive it to the store, shut it off, get back in and the problem will show it's face. I can turn the key repeatedly and it will eventually start. Sometimes it will start after two key turns, and sometimes after 30-40 key turns - but it always starts.
My battery tests fine (It's brand-new, and I had the problem for a while on the old battery)
I've replaced my starter relay switch 3 different times (2 used relays from a salvage yard, and 1 brand-new)
I ruled it down to an ignition switch and replaced the switch last night. During that process after installing the switch, I decided to test it before buckling everything back together, to make sure I had my gear right on the switch, and it fired right up (didn't mean it was fixed, because the problem was intermittent before the switch replacement). After putting everything back together, I went to turn the key ... Same problem - No crank, no start. Turned it 15-20 times, and it eventually started. At first I thought it was the pass-lock relearn, however if that be the case, it shouldn't have started at all, or at least not as quickly as it did without preforming any relearn test.
My security light does blink, but only for a few seconds while the key is in the on position while the self test processes, and then it goes away. Again, the truck always starts. There is no check engine light (before or after removing the negative battery cable to install the switch).
Any suggestions on what to try next?! Security device? Starter solenoid? I'm at a loss. Any help, input or advice is greatly appreciated. Please let me know if you need any other information from me to assist.
Thank you,
-Justin
Firstly, I've searched this forum thoroughly before going forward with this post, in fact some of my thread finds are the reasons for the troubleshooting I've done up to this point.
Here's my problem - For a while, I've been having an issue where I can turn my key to the start/crank position and nothing happens. I have full electronic power at the dash and I can hear the fuel pump engage (Replaced pump a little over a year ago). The problem is totally random, meaning I can start my truck at any given time and it fires up perfectly, I can drive it to the store, shut it off, get back in and the problem will show it's face. I can turn the key repeatedly and it will eventually start. Sometimes it will start after two key turns, and sometimes after 30-40 key turns - but it always starts.
My battery tests fine (It's brand-new, and I had the problem for a while on the old battery)
I've replaced my starter relay switch 3 different times (2 used relays from a salvage yard, and 1 brand-new)
I ruled it down to an ignition switch and replaced the switch last night. During that process after installing the switch, I decided to test it before buckling everything back together, to make sure I had my gear right on the switch, and it fired right up (didn't mean it was fixed, because the problem was intermittent before the switch replacement). After putting everything back together, I went to turn the key ... Same problem - No crank, no start. Turned it 15-20 times, and it eventually started. At first I thought it was the pass-lock relearn, however if that be the case, it shouldn't have started at all, or at least not as quickly as it did without preforming any relearn test.
My security light does blink, but only for a few seconds while the key is in the on position while the self test processes, and then it goes away. Again, the truck always starts. There is no check engine light (before or after removing the negative battery cable to install the switch).
Any suggestions on what to try next?! Security device? Starter solenoid? I'm at a loss. Any help, input or advice is greatly appreciated. Please let me know if you need any other information from me to assist.
Thank you,
-Justin
#2
That sounds like a headache, you didn't mention if it's an auto or manual. Neutral or Clutch safety switch? Did you test for power while in key in crank position at the starter "S" stud (small stud) on the solenoid when you had the no crank issue? Could also be a dead spot in the starter motor windings or contaminated brushes do to oil saturation from engine oil leaks or just from heavy use, they always seem to show this symptom when the starter is hot (the ol' smack the starter with a hammer syndrome) but not always. If you have power to that stud on crank but it won't turn over, I would change the starter but have it tested to be sure if you have it out. Take a look at this video from chris fix, he is pretty good at common fix items.
#3
Justin
Well by reading you have done everything except the first step, testing the starter.
#1 When it is dead have somebody turn the key to start and reach under and tap the bottom of the starter with a hammer, if it happens to kick in replace the starter.
Or #2 remove the starter and take it to your auto parts store and have it tested { and if it happens to be a bad winding their test may or may not show up, depending where the starter lands during the test}
My guess is you either have one or all, a bad winding, bad bushings in the starter, or a bad spin wheel it the solenoid. By turning the key repeatedly to start it slowly bumps it past the bad point then it spins over.
Duhwolf we both had more or less the same post at the same time
Well by reading you have done everything except the first step, testing the starter.
#1 When it is dead have somebody turn the key to start and reach under and tap the bottom of the starter with a hammer, if it happens to kick in replace the starter.
Or #2 remove the starter and take it to your auto parts store and have it tested { and if it happens to be a bad winding their test may or may not show up, depending where the starter lands during the test}
My guess is you either have one or all, a bad winding, bad bushings in the starter, or a bad spin wheel it the solenoid. By turning the key repeatedly to start it slowly bumps it past the bad point then it spins over.
Duhwolf we both had more or less the same post at the same time
Last edited by odat; 01-22-2018 at 11:06 PM.
#4
That sounds like a headache, you didn't mention if it's an auto or manual. Neutral or Clutch safety switch? Did you test for power while in key in crank position at the starter "S" stud (small stud) on the solenoid when you had the no crank issue? Could also be a dead spot in the starter motor windings or contaminated brushes do to oil saturation from engine oil leaks or just from heavy use, they always seem to show this symptom when the starter is hot (the ol' smack the starter with a hammer syndrome) but not always. If you have power to that stud on crank but it won't turn over, I would change the starter but have it tested to be sure if you have it out. Take a look at this video from chris fix, he is pretty good at common fix items. https://youtu.be/yC409CU7mU8
Originally Posted by odat
Well by reading you have done everything except the first step, testing the starter.
#1 When it is dead have somebody turn the key to start and reach under and tap the bottom of the starter with a hammer, if it happens to kick in replace the starter.
Or #2 remove the starter and take it to your auto parts store and have it tested { and if it happens to be a bad winding their test may or may not show up, depending where the starter lands during the test}
My guess is you either have one or all, a bad winding, bad bushings in the starter, or a bad spin wheel it the solenoid. By turning the key repeatedly to start it slowly bumps it past the bad point then it spins over.
#1 When it is dead have somebody turn the key to start and reach under and tap the bottom of the starter with a hammer, if it happens to kick in replace the starter.
Or #2 remove the starter and take it to your auto parts store and have it tested { and if it happens to be a bad winding their test may or may not show up, depending where the starter lands during the test}
My guess is you either have one or all, a bad winding, bad bushings in the starter, or a bad spin wheel it the solenoid. By turning the key repeatedly to start it slowly bumps it past the bad point then it spins over.
I'll update this thread with my findings after the starter test.
#5
Sorry for the delayed response guys, I have been really busy and I didn't see the notifications letting me know that I had some responses (I updated my settings lol).
I went ahead and just replaced the starter. One day when I was experiencing the problem, I had my wife turn the key for me while I tapped on the side of the solenoid with a cheater ba and it cranked over, even that was questionable, because like I said before, it has always eventually started. I work 16-18 hrs a day lol, so I finally just chose to swap the starter with a brand-new one. Haven't had any issues since.
I appreciate y'alls input and help.
-JG
I went ahead and just replaced the starter. One day when I was experiencing the problem, I had my wife turn the key for me while I tapped on the side of the solenoid with a cheater ba and it cranked over, even that was questionable, because like I said before, it has always eventually started. I work 16-18 hrs a day lol, so I finally just chose to swap the starter with a brand-new one. Haven't had any issues since.
I appreciate y'alls input and help.
-JG
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