I removed the fuel tank from my 2001 Chevy Blazer. Then I removed the fuel pump. It reads Delphi on it. Is a Delphi what comes with the Blazer? Also when I removed the pump there was a spring wrapped around the fuel measurement arm, and there was a circular plastic part in the sump bucket. The engine ran fine as it came apart. Are these parts leftovers from a previous pump? They do not seem to be pieces of the Delphi pump.
Thanks,
RTJ49

 

Those parts look to be part of the filler neck 'roll-over' check-valve that somehow made their way into the tank. It could be that someone in the past forced a siphon hose through the filler neck and, in doing so, dislodged those parts from the filler neck. These check-valves also include a plastic ball that does the actual sealing in the event of a roll-over crash so, make sure that you carefully inspect the inside of the tank for this ball (it might have wedged itself inside of the tank).

 

I forgot to mention that Delphi is/was a GM supplier and, as such, that pump could have come with your Blazer when it rolled off the assembly line. Note: AC Delco and Delphi brand pumps are the preferred replacement units due to their longevity as compared to most, if not all, other aftermarket brands.

 

Thanks FMB42
RTJ49

 

Once I get mine girl straight, I'm gonna be dropping the tank to replace to fuel pump..


Any tips or suggestions? I've heard that its way easy to do if you have a lift...I'm gonna be doing it in my driveway....


Already got AC Delco pump on order but I hear something about having to replace the connector?

 

We already have beaucoup threads about fuel tank/pump replacement. If you use the 'search' function you'll find your answers.

 

Hi Bagherra,
I removed the tank while on the ground. Get it jacked up, and on jack stands. Removing the spare tire is worth it. Use some type of lube on the tank strap bolt and nut. Remove the rear strap and just loosen the front some to let the back of the tank down some. I put the floor jack with a 2 x 6 on it under the tank. Then you can remove the two electric connections and the fuel lines. Drain as much fuel as possible. Slide the tank to the rear just an inch or two to make getting the front air line easier to remove. Not that hard.

 

Yep, like they say, you absolutely must make sure that you disconnect the rubber vent line/hoses both front and rear. Failure to do so will result in broken vent valves. Some of these vent valves are replaceable and some are permanently built into the tank; so be extra careful with this. These rubber vent hoses can become hard and difficult to remove from the easily broken plastic vent valves. In this case it is sometimes necessary to carefully slit the rubber hose along the vent nipple with a razor knife in order to remove them without breaking the vent valve (which may, or may not, require replacing the rubber vent hoses).

As for draining the tank: some are said to have a drain plug, while most do not. If not, just siphon the fuel once you disconnect the filler hose from the tank (you can not siphon fuel out from the fuel cap filler neck due to the 'roll-over' valve).

And, like RJT49 says, apply plenty of penetrating oil to the tank strap nuts and threads (doing so a day or 2 before you start can really help). Replacement strap/bolts and nuts aren't too expensive if you have no choice but to cut the old straps due to corrosion.

Important note: You should, of course, first disconnect the tank vent hoses from the metal lines that they connect to rather than from the plastic vent valves. I should have mentioned this from the start. Then, once the tank is out you'll want to make sure that these hoses aren't leaking, or about to start leaking (due to cracking and age). You'll also want to check the O-rings that seal the plastic vents to the tank. Leaks at the vent O-rings and/or hoses will often result in an EVAP code and/or possible fuel leaks later on. Also be careful not to break these vent valves while installing the tank. Another issue (especially with steel tanks) is that they are very thin walled and, as such, the bottom of the tank can easily be dented inwards during installation while using a lifting jack to raise it. There is very little clearance between the bottom floor of the tank and the fuel pump strainer and pickup tube which makes it important not to dent the bottom of the tank (this is also a issue in regard to high-centering the tank while driving off road).