Finally got around to jacking up the Jimmy to start working on the bearings yesterday.

I took all the brake gear off and suspended the calipers with wires. Then a put both tires back on and tightened them with two opposing studs, put the vehicle in neutral and spun the wheels one a time to see if I could duplicate the noise I hear when driving. The sucker was as smooth as silk and there was no noise at all!

I then started looking around for anything that might cause a noise and found the emergency brake adjustment on the left wheel a bit loose, so I though maybe the rotor was rubbing on that. I tightened that up spun the wheels and they both rotated nicely with no noises. So I then put everything back and took the vehicle for a test drive. The noises are as loud as ever!

So now I'm wondering what is going on! Are the bearings OK? Or they shot but only grind when the load is put on them?

I was also reading that when the bearings wear out, more often than not the bearings have also worn out (scored) the shaft which also needs to be replaced (and is a dealer part only)! It makes sense to me since the roller bearings run up against the inner surface of the shaft but is that in fact true? How can one tell if the shaft has been scored by the roller bearings? i.e. How can you see inside the shaft once it's out and the bearings are pulled out?

Apart from using a slide hammer tool and an axle bearing puller, I understand that I will also need an axle shaft bearing installer to push the new bearing assembly back into the shaft. Is that correct or is there another way to install the bearing assembly?

Thanks,

quickcurrent

 

Anybody ?????

 

Go buy a stethescope for a few bucks at the parts store. Jack the truck back up and use that to listen. You'll get a much better idea of where the noises are coming from.

 

I have a stethoscope, but listen to what? The noises only come on when on the road!

Maybe I should put the vehicle back on stands and then run the engine in drive to engage the entire drive train to see if the noise comes on that way with no load, then I'd know if it's something else. I've never done that before or seen it done. Any problem with doing that?

 

I believe the kit you rent from the APS has some sort of tool to install the bearings back in...don't quote me on that though.

 

That's basically what I did, except on a lift. Worked perfectly.

 

Thank you guys, I'll go try that and see what I find out.

 

I've concluded that it is indeed my rear left axle shaft bearing that is worn. I am now in the process of removing the axle shafts, but have run into a bit of an obstacle and need a little help.

I have rear wheels and disc brake parts all off, have also removed the differential cover plate and drained all differential oil and have removed the 7mm head bolt (pinion lock screw) that held the pinion shaft in place, which was tough to get it started! I guess they had used threadlock on it! I then used a telescopic magnet to pull out the pinion shaft.

Now the problem. I can't find the c clips (presumably the shaft lock in the diagram)! Can anyone tell me exactly where they are and how to get at them? I read somewhere that the vehicle should be in neutral and I have mine in park - would that make any difference? I push in and pull out on the shaft hub but can't see the clips to remove them! Do I look through the pinion shaft space? That faces straight back and is hard to look inside!

Also, I was poking around for the filler plug around the top of the differential housing, as I will need that later, and can't find it either on the driver's side or the passenger's side or on top! So I need to find that and once I find it when I go to fill the differential with lubricant how do I pour that in? Is it necessary to set up a hose going into the plug and coming out the side of the vehicle to fill the differential to the top (like I've seen somewhere on the net)?

thanks,

quickcurrent

 

Oh, one more question.

I'll be replacing both bearings, given the amount of work involved in getting at them and their low cost. Should I also replace the oil seals while I'm at it or only if I damage them pulling out the shafts. Is there a way to check them for wear?

thanks,

quickcurrent

 

Being in park would prohibit your wheels from turning, try neutral. While I've never replaced a rear wheel bearing on a rear wheel drive vehicle or removed a C-clip for that matter, you may be able to see your C-clips once you rotate your rear-end gear. (I'm not sure on this, just wanted to throw out an idea)

Should be on the passenger side, above mid way and it looks like the end of a socket that attaches to a rachet, in fact I simply used a rachet to remove mine.