2000 4dr 4x4 blazer

full explanation of all things.
1. fuel pump went out, replaced
2. high fuel pressure (the return line that got caught when putting tank back in),fixed
3. fuel pressure regulator went out(would run and not sound bogged down but ran vary rich and bad mpg), replaced
4. cleaner o2 sensor(sat in gas for 3days), SES light on(bad ect)
5.replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor
6. still runs bad, I let it idle for 30min and drove it maybe 2-4miles

runs and idles just fine
at half or less throttle will rev up fine
WOT it sputters and is bogged down
no black smoke
ran vary rich for a month-clogged cat?
no power when driving, cant go over 50mph downhill
no SES light on


maybe a clogged injector?
or bad gas?
bad o2?
spark plugs
coil pack
bad fuel pressure regulator?

thanks for the help

cleaned the MAS and it seemed a bit better

 

Check to make sure the crank position sensor hold down bolt is tight. I bought a 2000 Blazer with a miss and it bogged at around 3,000 rpm with no codes. Crank sensor was loose. I replaced it, but just tightening would probably have fixed it. Ran great afterwards. A possibility.

 

check the plugs, way overgaped, under the hood says .06, they are over .08
so ordered them and cap and rotor from dealer
$160 for it a bit much but if the 4.3 like the stock things then that's what it gets

 

replaced the plugs, had a bad wire so order that
and someone said it could be the crank senor, will look into that this weekend

 

next time check out rockauto.com they sell stock parts at way less prices I paid like 100 bucks for all delco or delphi parts shipped. just a suggestion. also I see you replaced the fuel pump but did you replace the fuel filter?

 

did not do the inline, yet

 

try that since it is cheap, maybe run some lucas injector cleaner through the gas tank might help

 

If your going to do the fuel filter I'd spray the connection down a day in advance with penetrate and be sure to use a line wrench. If you mess up the fitting the $20 line repair kit is unwanted extra work. One side has a quick connect and is fairly easy.

 

Got the plugs, cap, and rotor on.
Also checked back pressure and that was 0-1psi only going up when it sputters
Check the crank sensor voltage was 9.xx, and checked the resistance of the sensor and I tired every combination of the pins but could not get a reading. The the yellow + and the purple - correct?
took it out and had oil on it

So buy a crank senor and a code reader that can do the CASE relearn?

 

What wires were you measuring across to get your reading of ~9V at the CKP sensor? This sensor is powered by the ECM 1 fuse which should provide battery voltage to the sensor. A fautly CKP sensor should set a code as well.

What was the specific code? Are there any other codes present now? Did the ECT code come back?