i swapped my scanner for a 50inch lightbar about a week before this happened 😰
but what are the chances i jumped timing? because i really don’t want to take apart my motor i just hit 100,000... when i dropped the first distributor in exactly how the first one came out i only messed up by not tightening the hold down bolt enough then when i parked it wouldn’t start again,BUT it was running VERY good before i parked, today was the first time its started since ...and i did not use the new distributor that i first put in...also i didn’t even take out the #1 spark plug to get TDC i literally just lined up my marks and dropped in the distributor i took out of the zr2, made sure to hook up plug wires correctly & used the cap i took off the zr2 as well... i have cleaned my MAF sensor(fully disassembled & used CRC maf cleaner) .. I checked my Cold air intake for leaks, because i have a full aftermarket cold air intake by Spectre, it has a raised throttle body cover that requires these spacing threads & i though maybe i developed a leak around my throttle body bc of the whole thing not fitting exactly so me tinkering with it.. I have a new TB gasket & planned on using it when installing the Transdapt Torque-Curve throttle body spacer i have... also my plug wires are nearly new & i just put NGK platinum Gpower plugs in right before fall.BUT i noticed before when trying to start it the #1 plug would be covered in wet oil,Perhaps i have fouled plugs? worth a shot to take them out and clean/replace? or should i get a TDC tool and reinstall the new distributor i first dropped in and try that? again every reply and comment is greatly appreciated if anyone needs to see anything lmk ill post a photo

 

no question is stupid, but i checked my plug wires and i found two that needed to be switched, i corrected them & the backfire nearly stopped but its still slow responding to the throttle & im scared to drive it to see how it does because im terrified to end up having to fix the timing chain etc... when i replaced the distributor the first time it ran very good but i didn’t tighten the hold down bolt enough and when i parked it wouldn’t start.. todays the first day its ran but i dropped in a used distributor i took out of a zr2 s10 maybe i should take it out and put in my new distributor i first dropped in?

 

You need to check the cam retard to see if the distributor is installed properly. It will run if it's a tooth off, but the sparks will have to jump huge gaps inside the distributor, and sometimes it's just easier for the spark to jump to the next terminal instead.

You can carefully pull the distributor up a tiny bit and and rotate it one tooth in either direction to try it. If the oil pump drive doesn't line up, have somebody "bump" the starter for a second while you apply gentle downward pressure on the distributor body. It will drop right in.

If one tooth clockwise doesn't make it run better, try two teeth counterclockwise (one tooth CCW from original position).

 

There are a lot of moving parts here. Lets get back to the beginning.

When did the truck last run perfectly with no starting issues? What was changed right before the trouble started? Why are you changing distributors?

I don't know that you have a timing chain problem, I brought it up as a possibility. You obviously had an ignition wire order problem (good call Tom). Now that you have corrected that issue what other problems remain?

If your going to be doing your own engine modification and repair work you really need scanning capability.

George


George

 

im working on getting a scanner , but to the story,..
i had done a lot of work to this blazer and was trying to achieve 0codes with no check engine light,well i achieved 0codes but random misfire would cause the check engine light to come on every 2-3rides , couldn’t feel any misfire but i knew the distributor was to blame bc ive replaced and fixed almost everything except tearing the engine down sort of things, well i got a new distributer,and decided with no experience to replace the one in my blazer.Sure enough the distributor i took out had a melted rotor and decently worn gear on the bottom, i dropped the new distributor in the blazer exactly how the first one was(I didnt mark anything and unfortunately didnt think of it until later reading tips).. well i finished putting it in and started my blazer!(no experience whatsoever with distributor or timing) and i decided to do a test drive , it ran VERY strong, idled great, shifted great, well i got to a buddys house 4minutes up the road and parked and was showing him where i was gonna soon take off my throttle body & add my spacer & we noticed my distributor was so loose you could shake it back &forth( i didn’t tighten the hold down bolt enough)... so i tightened it but the blazer didn’t start , that was 2weeks ago , today i figured i had learned enough researching and did a quick lazy job of trying to get it started by not removing the #1 spark plug and just turning my motor until i saw what appeared to be good enough far as lining up markings,... and i turned the oil pump just enough to sit the distributor flush on the manifold BUT this distributor iv never ran or see run BC i pulled it out of a Zr2 s10 and i got it bc it looked hardly used at all,especially the rotor. i didn’t notice until after i had it in that i didn’t put my new one in.... but anyways i got the rotor point close to the 6 on the brim of the housing, stuck a cap on that looked good (I have so many i mixed up my “for sure” cap in with them so i cleaned the contacts of all and chose to use the one that was already on the zr2’s distributor(which looks very clean) and i started my blazer and i was shocked it started up without effort with no trouble not giving it any gas after sitting in 40-20degree weather for 2weeks.... and i got it here & found only teo plug wires crossed from the lazy quick job but the blazer still responds to the pedal slow and wanted to stall just like before i fixed the wires although i haven’t drove it after fixing the wires should i? or should i put in the new distributor now that i know how to do the job correctly and how to line up everything? or try a different cap maybe?... any ideas and input is greatly appreciated! but thats the story... & heres a photo of the original distributor i pulled -any photos needed ask and ill post😎

 

The list of things that can cause random misfires is a long list. Fuel delivery, ignition problems, worn bearings, crank sensor, cam sensor, O2 sensors, MAF sensor, ..... In addition some "random misfires" are not misfires at all, just faulty misfire counts. A misfire is assumed any time there is a small change in the crank velocity near that cylinder indicated. Sometimes chasing P0300 codes is like chasing ghosts and can be frustrating. If you are able to get scanner capability report back.

George