Yes, they are low-power high beams, but there is still a wire that goes to the DRL relay, which controls the operation of the DRLs. The wiring diagram pretty much explained how that worked (except that it was wrong in the sense that on my year truck, the DRL control and fog lamps run from the same fuse).

And you're right about the voltmeter. It's something I really need to get right away.

Black strip? What kind of black strip?

 

There might be a black line/stripe on the ground wires...

See what your headlights do when only one is connected at a time... it might help ya figure out where the trouble spots are...

 

OIC. Yes, that sounds like a good idea. I will try that and then post the results.

 

I'll be waitin'! lol

 

Well, I pulled off the grille again yesterday, and it turned out the two wires controlling the high beams on the driver's side had popped out of the heat shrink connector. All the other wires on both sides were still secure. It seems those two wires didn't like the heat shrink, soI spliced them into clip connectors. Now my H4s work perfectly -- lows AND highs.

The only weird thing is that the DRLs no longer work, even when the fuse is in (and it's not blown). SinceI hate 'em anyway,I'm not complaining.

 

Sweet, good to hear ya got it working!

H4 conversions FTW!

 

Thanks! And two weeks later, there's still no more blinking.

 

Nice!

Time for some night shots! lol.

How's the light output? Do they have a wicked cut-off?

 

It's a BIG difference from the old sealed beams. However, I think I may need to adjust the aim, which is easy to do. I just haven't felt like doing it yet. LOL. I'll try to take more pix this weekend and post here.

 

I loved my H4 conversion I did on my old S10...

It worked as good, if not better than the stockers on my '05.