95 Blazer Died
#1
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Hi
I have a 95 Blazer that simply died while backing up the driveway. I'm quite sure its not getting fuel,but why? I cannot hear the fuel pump kick in when I hit the key before the start position like before, yet I can hear the relay kick out 2-3 seconds after. I pulled the gas tank,replaced the fuel pump and it worked, yet the old fuel pump worked as well (took new one-got money back). I put the gas tank and all back together in place with the old fuel pump (retested first-worked) and got nothing. Besides that, my gas gauge sending unit does not work anymore,yet I get a red light on my test light when I go up and down the coil on the sending unit.
I also get a red light to my fuel pump. I cleaned up my ground cables/feed even though my trailer lights conection works off the same feed. The relay seems to check out fine, swapped relays with horn relay-horn works and the fuse is good. I can spray gas into the Idle Air Control Valve throat and it wil run until it burns that gas up. I replaced the fuel pump 6 years (30,000 miles ago). Before I replaced it, I could spray gas into the Idle Air Control Valve and take a ride with no problems as long as I did not turn the Blazer off. Seems to me there is something else not allowing the fuel pump and sending unit to kick in.
On the forum, I read about situations concerning the ignition switch going bad which affects the fuel pump operation. My main question is how do I test the ignition switch before buying a new one and do I need the whole Ignition Starter Switch if I do need to replace it. Trying to troubleshoot before I buy parts I don't need. Reason why I took the fuel pump back!
Also, is there anything else that could be affecting the operation of the fuel pump and sending unit? I appreciate all responses.
bser
I have a 95 Blazer that simply died while backing up the driveway. I'm quite sure its not getting fuel,but why? I cannot hear the fuel pump kick in when I hit the key before the start position like before, yet I can hear the relay kick out 2-3 seconds after. I pulled the gas tank,replaced the fuel pump and it worked, yet the old fuel pump worked as well (took new one-got money back). I put the gas tank and all back together in place with the old fuel pump (retested first-worked) and got nothing. Besides that, my gas gauge sending unit does not work anymore,yet I get a red light on my test light when I go up and down the coil on the sending unit.
I also get a red light to my fuel pump. I cleaned up my ground cables/feed even though my trailer lights conection works off the same feed. The relay seems to check out fine, swapped relays with horn relay-horn works and the fuse is good. I can spray gas into the Idle Air Control Valve throat and it wil run until it burns that gas up. I replaced the fuel pump 6 years (30,000 miles ago). Before I replaced it, I could spray gas into the Idle Air Control Valve and take a ride with no problems as long as I did not turn the Blazer off. Seems to me there is something else not allowing the fuel pump and sending unit to kick in.
On the forum, I read about situations concerning the ignition switch going bad which affects the fuel pump operation. My main question is how do I test the ignition switch before buying a new one and do I need the whole Ignition Starter Switch if I do need to replace it. Trying to troubleshoot before I buy parts I don't need. Reason why I took the fuel pump back!
Also, is there anything else that could be affecting the operation of the fuel pump and sending unit? I appreciate all responses.
bser
#2
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Have you tested the voltage to the pump? Pumps can test fine out of the tank and be had when installed. I would not have returned the new pump unless it was a crappy aftermarket (ie anything other than AC Delco or Delphi) replacement.
#3
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bser I have the same thing
can you pull the codes from the OBD 2 port
I have Link error on the ODB port
https://blazerforum.com/forum/tech-articles-diy-29/obd2-scan-tool-does-not-communicate-class-2-device-37896/
hope someone has a fix for us
can you pull the codes from the OBD 2 port
I have Link error on the ODB port
https://blazerforum.com/forum/tech-articles-diy-29/obd2-scan-tool-does-not-communicate-class-2-device-37896/
hope someone has a fix for us
Last edited by davedidit; 08-24-2010 at 10:54 PM.
#4
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Yes, I do have voltage at the fuel pump out of the tank. The pump I returned was a Carter, same as the one installed at the shop 6 years, 30,000 miles ago. What is your take on the possibility of the ignition switch not activating the fuel pump and how to test the ignition?
Thanks Much
bser
#5
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bser I have the same thing
can you pull the codes from the OBD 2 port
I have Link error on the ODB port
https://blazerforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37896
hope someone has a fix for us
can you pull the codes from the OBD 2 port
I have Link error on the ODB port
https://blazerforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37896
hope someone has a fix for us
I did not come up with any codes using an Actron Model CP9176L OBD II scanner from Autozone. I've read that some of the older scanners and the latest scanners will get code readings off a 95 Blazer 16 pin DLC. Sounds like Chevy used Blazers as a transition period from OBD I to OBD II.
FYI
Also, a guy online bought an Actron Model CP9175 and got codes from a 95 Blazer.
Good Luck-Bser
#7
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If the DTC is 16 pin, you need a ODB II, just gotta find one that works. The one I cited ealier-the Actron CP9175 is a ODB II. He said he had to put it in Global mode in setup to make it work. The one I got from AutoZone did not have Global setting in setup. ODB I DCT's are 12 pin and rectangular.
Hope this helps you!
bser
#8
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On the sending unit, you probably bent one of the contact pins that glides on the exposed potentiometer rail while removing/installing the module. They are very sensitive.
I was able to fix mine by carefully bending the pins that had separated from the resistance rail. I broke some plastic retaining clips in the process of dismantling the sending unit, but it's been working accurately ever since. I had to dismantle it to get the pins bent far enough.
I was able to fix mine by carefully bending the pins that had separated from the resistance rail. I broke some plastic retaining clips in the process of dismantling the sending unit, but it's been working accurately ever since. I had to dismantle it to get the pins bent far enough.
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