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96 Blazer Has Spark, Fuel, No Start

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  #11  
Old 10-30-2012, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by bobby099
i might be wrong but have you checked your cap and rotor? im having the same problems you are having but im getting spark good fuel pressure my 97 runs just not when it rains so i think its the cap and rotor.
You probably have bad wires or cap and rotor like you said, the rain will cause spark jump between the wires. When its dark out open the hood and use a mist bottle and spray it at the wires wile its running. If you see blue spark along the wires then you found your problem.

Over time thin spots will get rubbed in the wires and this will happen, it will also happen out of the box if you have crap wires
 
  #12  
Old 10-30-2012, 07:12 PM
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thats what im saying to this forum member thats what im thinking to
 
  #13  
Old 10-30-2012, 07:16 PM
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Yeah i know sorry, just trying to tell you to test it before you go throw money at a cap and rotor then realize it was the wires. Unless youre just going to do everything at once.
 
  #14  
Old 10-30-2012, 07:25 PM
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oh no i changed the plugs so i was hopeing that was the problem that helped dont get me wrong but then today it wouldnt start at all
 
  #15  
Old 10-30-2012, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Zendik

We tried starting fluid with no luck.

I have no voltmeter.

I can try starting 5x and nothing but when I try to start it and turn the key all the way off it sputters a little bit. Almost like a backfire but not really.
Not starting even with starting fluid, indicates that the problem is not fuel related.

If it tries to start, or sputters just as you turn the key off, it may be a problem with the ignition switch, ignition module, ignition coil, or the associated wiring, and you'll need a Digital Volt Ohm Meter to diagnose the problem. We can help you with the diagnosis.
 
  #16  
Old 10-31-2012, 05:37 AM
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Things that have been changed

-plugs
-wires
-dizzy
-fuel pump
-fuel filter
-crank sensor
-mass air flow sensor

hmm that's about all, so losing patience on a car I've put this much time and effort into is pretty reasonable. I've done some reading and still came up empty handed, so wanting to toss this POS out and find something better sounds fair.
 

Last edited by prelude1897; 10-31-2012 at 05:39 AM.
  #17  
Old 10-31-2012, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Captain Hook
Not starting even with starting fluid, indicates that the problem is not fuel related.

If it tries to start, or sputters just as you turn the key off, it may be a problem with the ignition switch, ignition module, ignition coil, or the associated wiring, and you'll need a Digital Volt Ohm Meter to diagnose the problem. We can help you with the diagnosis.
I'll be borrowing one from work today.
I may take off at lunch to try and fix this..
 
  #18  
Old 10-31-2012, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by prelude1897
Things that have been changed

-plugs
-wires
-dizzy
-fuel pump
-fuel filter
-crank sensor
-mass air flow sensor

hmm that's about all, so losing patience on a car I've put this much time and effort into is pretty reasonable. I've done some reading and still came up empty handed, so wanting to toss this POS out and find something better sounds fair.
Well if you want to give up i cant help you, But if you want to answer a few questions i can probably help. What brand parts did you use for the plugs, wires, fuel pump and crank sensor??

Since you replace the crank sensor it kind of sounds like you are having problems with its gap between the reluctor ring (sits on the end of the crank) If the gap isnt correct or if you took it off and forgot to put it back on, this problem will happen. Hopefully Captain hook will have more on that. So at this point i dont think the Pass Lock is your problem.

If you want to take a little more time to sit and let us help you with this problem we would be glad to help, but if you dont then thats your choice and probably not a very good one.

I just bought a 2000 blazer that was in terrible shape engine wise so the owner thought, and had completely given up on. I spent a couple hours on here then about 1-2 hours under the hood and now it runs better than my 97.. and it started out only running on about 4 cylinders. So im just trying to say dont give up... its up to you in the end tho.
 
  #19  
Old 10-31-2012, 05:07 PM
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Ok, I have a digital volt meter but have no clue what to do with it...
 
  #20  
Old 10-31-2012, 06:28 PM
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DCV 20 volt range.
Test leads where they are in the image.
Hold the black probe to battery negative.
Hold the red probe to the pink wire on the ignition coil.
Have an assistant crank the starter while you watch voltage.
Also watch it when turning the ignition to the OFF position, (when you got the sputtering).
Post your results.
 


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