96 Blazer Has Spark, Fuel, No Start
#11
Over time thin spots will get rubbed in the wires and this will happen, it will also happen out of the box if you have crap wires
#15
If it tries to start, or sputters just as you turn the key off, it may be a problem with the ignition switch, ignition module, ignition coil, or the associated wiring, and you'll need a Digital Volt Ohm Meter to diagnose the problem. We can help you with the diagnosis.
#16
Things that have been changed
-plugs
-wires
-dizzy
-fuel pump
-fuel filter
-crank sensor
-mass air flow sensor
hmm that's about all, so losing patience on a car I've put this much time and effort into is pretty reasonable. I've done some reading and still came up empty handed, so wanting to toss this POS out and find something better sounds fair.
-plugs
-wires
-dizzy
-fuel pump
-fuel filter
-crank sensor
-mass air flow sensor
hmm that's about all, so losing patience on a car I've put this much time and effort into is pretty reasonable. I've done some reading and still came up empty handed, so wanting to toss this POS out and find something better sounds fair.
Last edited by prelude1897; 10-31-2012 at 05:39 AM.
#17
Not starting even with starting fluid, indicates that the problem is not fuel related.
If it tries to start, or sputters just as you turn the key off, it may be a problem with the ignition switch, ignition module, ignition coil, or the associated wiring, and you'll need a Digital Volt Ohm Meter to diagnose the problem. We can help you with the diagnosis.
If it tries to start, or sputters just as you turn the key off, it may be a problem with the ignition switch, ignition module, ignition coil, or the associated wiring, and you'll need a Digital Volt Ohm Meter to diagnose the problem. We can help you with the diagnosis.
I may take off at lunch to try and fix this..
#18
Things that have been changed
-plugs
-wires
-dizzy
-fuel pump
-fuel filter
-crank sensor
-mass air flow sensor
hmm that's about all, so losing patience on a car I've put this much time and effort into is pretty reasonable. I've done some reading and still came up empty handed, so wanting to toss this POS out and find something better sounds fair.
-plugs
-wires
-dizzy
-fuel pump
-fuel filter
-crank sensor
-mass air flow sensor
hmm that's about all, so losing patience on a car I've put this much time and effort into is pretty reasonable. I've done some reading and still came up empty handed, so wanting to toss this POS out and find something better sounds fair.
Since you replace the crank sensor it kind of sounds like you are having problems with its gap between the reluctor ring (sits on the end of the crank) If the gap isnt correct or if you took it off and forgot to put it back on, this problem will happen. Hopefully Captain hook will have more on that. So at this point i dont think the Pass Lock is your problem.
If you want to take a little more time to sit and let us help you with this problem we would be glad to help, but if you dont then thats your choice and probably not a very good one.
I just bought a 2000 blazer that was in terrible shape engine wise so the owner thought, and had completely given up on. I spent a couple hours on here then about 1-2 hours under the hood and now it runs better than my 97.. and it started out only running on about 4 cylinders. So im just trying to say dont give up... its up to you in the end tho.
#20
DCV 20 volt range.
Test leads where they are in the image.
Hold the black probe to battery negative.
Hold the red probe to the pink wire on the ignition coil.
Have an assistant crank the starter while you watch voltage.
Also watch it when turning the ignition to the OFF position, (when you got the sputtering).
Post your results.
Test leads where they are in the image.
Hold the black probe to battery negative.
Hold the red probe to the pink wire on the ignition coil.
Have an assistant crank the starter while you watch voltage.
Also watch it when turning the ignition to the OFF position, (when you got the sputtering).
Post your results.