Hey guys,

Was having what seemd to be the same issue I had in this thread:
https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...o-start-74859/


1996 Blazer
This timethough I got a code, I forget the number but it was a #5 cylinder misfire code.
I thought I'd get away easy and changed the plugs, wires, cap, etc. yet it would crank but no start, no start, no start then one day it did and the code was there and I cleared it while the truck was running and boom, hasn't started since.
Since it was cranking I was trouble shooting the fuel relay which was fine but the fuel pump wasn't turning on, we heard nothing and I tried the lone red test wire under the hood. Nothing still.
During all of this the cranking was intermittent, at times I would get nothing with no dash lights, then I'd get dash lights and it would crank. Now I have nothing. No click, no crank, no dash lights at all and the battery is new and fully charged.
I've been searching the net and the forum for a week and a half so....


Any help is so much appreciated and thanks for reading...

 

Sounds similar to an ignition switch failure. Check this thread: https://blazerforum.com/forum/articl...-switch-33465/

 

Ok.
I replaced the ignition switch and got back the dash lights and the engine cranks but would not start. I checked and there was no sound from the fuel pump. I checked the relays in the glove box and there is power getting to them, switched them around and still no fuel pump noise.
So, I replaced the fuel pump yet still no noise from it and no fuel no spark whereas I had spark before replacing the fuel pump...

Last time it did start, months ago, I was getting a code, #5 cylinder misfire, when I cleared the code the engine died and hasn't started since. Trying today I found the ECM fuse was toast.

Again, thanks for any help provided...
Z

 

It would be best to install a fuel pressure tester to the service port next to the distributor during these tests.


The single red pump prime wire goes directly to the fuel pump only when the ignition is in the OFF position. There are no fuses in this circuit when you apply voltage to the red wire. With the ignition OFF, the fuel pump must activate when you apply battery voltage to the red wire. Check it and post your results.


If or when ECM fuse #8 pops, it will not prevent the fuel pump from activating when using the pump prime wire, but it will prevent the pump from activating when you use the ignition switch. If the pump activates when using the pump prime wire, and not when using the ignition, unplug the oil pressure sending unit near the distributor, replace the fuse, and see if the pump activates when using the ignition switch.

 

Hi Captain Hook,
Thanks for the response!
You have must long distance reach. Applying voltage to the red wire immediate started the fuel pump. No problem hearing it.
I do not have a fuel pump pressure gauge but..
Being that the red wire did work, we held it for 4-5 seconds, I thought I'd see if I had spark. Turned the engine over and it started right up.....!??
Thing is... As I was sitting in the thing I went through the gears, park, reverse, ect., put it in 4 wheel drive, went through the gears and now it will not go into Park.
Starts fine in neutral... So far...

That's some long distance reach you got there!

 

As soon as you turn the ignition away from the OFF position, the jumper you put on the red wire does nothing, so if it started, the fuel pump relay is working, and it is being triggered by the PCM, and the ECM fuse is good.


If it won't go back into park, there might be an issue with the shift linkage on the trans binding up or out of adjustment... could also be why you had no crank before too.

 

As Captain suggested, the shift linkage could be the problem because starter will only engage if the trans is in either Park or Netural.
Not being able to put trans in Park tells me that the shift linkage has probably failed like mine did.
Shift linkage connects to trans under vehicle about inline with the driver's seat. There is a bracket that retains the cable end. If this bracket breaks then the entire cable is moving instead of just the inside. Repair is shift cable replacement....not real difficult, requires driver's seat removal and pulling carpet back as the cable goes through the floor. There is rubber grommet that is sealed with some really stickly stuff, which is the most difficult part of the job to deal with.

 

Ok guys....
This is blowing my mind.
The truck started three days ago and I've been driving it since.
Today, I drove about 20 miles, stopped and now the truck would not start.
I was hoping it was out of gas as the fuel gauge has been pegged way past full since the new pump. AAA brought two gallons and still no start, towed it back home.
We started all over again and tested the fuel pump with the red test wire under the hood and the fuel pump engaged. I tried to start the truck again and IT DID start. I re-parked the truck, let it run for a few minutes then shut it off. Tried to start it NO start. Checked the red test wire, fuel pump engaged, still no start...

Again..
Thanks for the replies and time..
Z

 

Hey guys...
I checked a few threads on how to adjust and or check the shift linkage and safety switch...
Came up with these but still a little murky on how to adjust the linkage...
https://blazerforum.com/forum/steeri...79/#post388222

Found this too but is this possible under the truck?
Linkage - LS1TECH

I'm sorry... Been a real headache.
Now the fuel pump isn't even turning on with the red test wire...

 

On the rear of your transfer case, there is a round metal tag with the model number. Should be NV231 or NV233. If it is electric shift, the transfer case is not adjustable.


Trans linkage adjustment is straight forward in the link. When it does not start, does the starter turn the engine over like normal? (cranks but does not start).


The ignition must be in the OFF position so the red pump prime wire can activate the pump. If it does not activate, there is a circuit problem for the pump. Grey is power to the pump, and black is ground for the pump.