Hi guys, long time no post, seems like everyone of my friends end up driving a blazer haha. My girlfriends blazer had started becoming real hard to start, it would need several seconds to crank before finally catching. Then one day it took a realllly long time to start, then later that day it wouldnt start at all. She's got no transport (besides me) and is in a real bind.

Changed the distributor cap and rotor, plugs wires and tested for spark, which is fine. Then i decided to spray a little starter fluid down the throttle body and it would start then stall as soon as the starting fluid was used up. So i know the problem is fuel.

I changed the fuel filter to make sure it wasnt clogged, and it didnt help. The car only starts (and stalls one or two seconds later) when i spray starting fluid in the intake stream. Im pretty sure its the fuel pump, which im aware would require me to drop the fuel tank and change it (PITA compared to my top access fuel pump!) but i wanted to get your guy's input as to if there is anything else it could be and i should check that could potentially be a quick/cheaper fix.

Thanks for your guys help now and in the past...

 

If you have not done so already, check your fuses and swap the horn relay with the fuel pump relay and try your horn. If those items check out fine and you still do not have fuel pressure (test for fuel pressure with a gauge), then you need to move back to the tank. Before just pulling the pump and replacing it, disconnect the electrical plug to the pump and test for voltage and proper ground. You would hate to replace the pump to find that the new one did not work either and the whole problem was caused by a cut wire!

 

Thanks for the reply.

I thought of the fuse/relay check, but couldnt find a fuse for the fuel pump and didnt quite know which relay was for the fuel. But if you can tell me how to identify it i think that fuel pump/horn relay swap sounds like a great test.

If that doesnt work i'll check the connection at the pump with my multimeter, does the blazer pump turn on with the key or only when your cranking? (i ask because my car's fuel pump is on whenever the key is in the on position and its alot easier to do it with one person)

Any good tricks to dropping the tank effectively? i heard only buy AC delco pumps and as far as installation; take out the spare tire and use a jack to stabalize the tank, do i have to to remove it completely or will i be able to fenagle it half dropped...

Thanks again...

 

The pump will turn on when you put the key into the RUN position.

I cannot remember if the relay is behind the glove box for a 96 or if it is on the fire wall. It is one or the other. Let me see if I can dig up an illustration...

Here ya go:

Its behind the glove box. There is a metal tab that holds the glove box in the open position. Lift the tab and the glove box will rotate down out of your way, dumping everything inside of it on the floor in the process.

Also, here is the schematic for the fuel pump:

 

Jumper the FP relay and pound on the fuel tank with your fist-- you have a 50% chance you will hear FP come on and now you can start it- and drive it to wherever it suits you best to change the FP...This is a very typical FP failure mode..........