swartlkk,

Problem finally, finally, finally resolved!
After checking the resistance to the Fuel Pump motor several times before starting, then starting the car, then turning it off, checking resistance again I found it was changing alot. I was taking measurements from the wire lead under the hood (drivers side).
Check out my fuel pump relay it was OK, So I dropped my spare tire. Actually had to cut the wire cord to get it down really rusted and couldn't turn that thing on the rear bumper. I managed to pull the 4 pin connector off the fuel pump. The connector had water driping out of it and everything was green inside (corrosion). Lots of it. This is the new style connector I had to splice on because GM had problems with water getting into the old style one. Anyways I got a new one and put it on. Took the car for a very long ride and no problems with power loss. I could do burn rubber going up my steep inclined driveway even. This also fixed the problem with my fuel guage I was having (should have took that as a clue)pegging over full all the time. Whole thing for months of headaches was just this stupid connector. This all started happening less then one week after putting in the new pump and connector. There was a dry period durning the summer where the problem went away. Butas soon as fall and wet weather came around it did it alot more (everyday). Bums me out I spent so much money replacing alot of parts that didn'tneed to be replaced.
Now I am still trying to get the computer to complete the cat and Evap testsso I can get it inspected. Taking for ever for this to complete. I run thedriving test as GM states but still won't complete those to tests. Wonder how many times I have to keep performing them? Someone said I read somewhere it may take many drive cycles.

Thanks so much for your help.
Brian

 

Wow! Good deal!! Originally when you had replaced the pump, I had assumed that everything would be ok on that end and that is why the diagnosis lead where it did. But without knowing that you had spliced on a new connector in the back, I would never have thought that it would have been a connection problem at the pump.

With the new connector in place, I would put some dielectric grease in the connector before pushing it together to keep water out. But that is definitely odd that the new connector allowed water in like that...

 

I coated the whole thing with RTV. At the very start of all this my first assumption was the Fuel Pump because it never happened before I put that pump in. I didn't want to drop that tank again.I did other things also like change the Filter, and pressure regulator. I kept thinking I created the problem when I took off the black upper intake manifiold thing to replace the regulator. But then I had other problems pop up that sent me in other directions (misfires codes, O2 sensors codes).

Brian

 

Us lurkers stand in awe with loud applause over this solved little demon of an issue..looks like i'm off to go inspect that nasty rear spare tire tommorow! 2 thumbs up on this movie~

 

No, it's not over. The Problem returns to rear it's ugly head again.
The car ran fine for 2 days. Then the problem returned. Loss of power on heavy acceleration or uphill driving again. I thought the problem was fixed but it is not . I went back under where my spare is and pulled off the 4 pin plug again. Found a small amount of water had still got inside (newly purchased and installed). I blew out the little bit of water there was. It was only a very small amount. Completely covered the new plug in dielectric grease (silicone). Plugged it back in and went for along drive. It still lost power when car driven for about 7 miles (going uphill and heavy acceleration). I'mdon't think this plug to the fuel pump was or is the cause now. It may have been a slight addition to the problem but not the cause.
Just bought a new fuel pressure gauge and from what I see the pump is operating normally I guess. Pressure at idle is about 47 psi. On a quick acceleration it shoots up to about 62 psi then drops off some.After I turn the engine off it remains at 60psi and does not drop. May not be perfect I don't know.

I Hear a loud Vaccum leak Ibelieve coming from where the fuel injector spider assembly stick out. It's what the fuel lines attach to.
This is strange. On a fast acceleration by manually doing it on the throttle body I can hear a loud vacuum noise. Almost like a loud hiss and pop kind of noise. What I see is the fuel injector is popping up out of the black Intake Plenum. It actually pops upmaybe about a 1/4 inch and makes this loud hiss/popping noise and then reseats itself backdown as I drop the rpms back down. Theattached fuel line move along with it.
Can someon check their engine and see if theirs does the same thing?Is this a normal thing. I don't ever remember it ever doing that before I changed the Fuel pressure regulator about 6 months or so ago.
The thing that does not make sense here is that as you do a quick acceleration (stomp on it fast) this assembly moves up. I thought that as you increased rpmsor accelerated fast that more vaccum is created in the intake manifold.I know that when I reinstall the spider assembly is sits loosely in the intake Plenum. But why would it pop out? Shouldn't it move in by alittle bit because of the increase vaccum? It does have an Oring seal around it thatwas slightly coated with oil as the instructions for reassembly stated.
Still it moves up and sounds like a big vaccum leak. Maybe this is more pronounced after the engine get hotter creating a very large vaccum leak on heavy loads or quick accelerations. Again this spider assembly does not sit tight inside Intake plenum and has alot of play on it's mounting bracket.The bracket the fuel injector assembly mounts onhas asome play in it. Maybe so it can move up and down alittle I don't know.
If someone can watch and listen to theirs as the quickly push the throttle body to rev the engine upfast.
I'm thinking this might be my whole problem as it does not seem normal to me.And this problem with the loss of power did not appear until I removed the fuel injector assembly to replace the pressure regulator.

Would greatly appreciate it ifsomeone would check theirs.

Brian

 

The injector pack should not move at all... Something is definitely wrong if that is moving.

 

Hi Brian,
I've been follwing your problem. Have you made any progress on finding the fix since early Feb.?

Thanks, Gary

 

Been awhile since I've posted here. I've done a few things since then. A stupid thing also[:@]. Decided to pull off the upper intake manifold (black plastic thing with throttle body). Wanted to check the spider assembly (injector pack) was secure. It was. The movement that it does is very little in the mounting bracket. Anyways I thought I'd pull the injector pack off the bracket and hook up the fuel lines to test for poppet valve leaks. Here come the really stupid part. When trying to put on the little nuts back on to hold the fuel lines down one slipped out of my hands and went down my #2 air intake port all the down to the valves. [:@]!(again).
If I had a rocket launcher that would have been the end of this blazer.
Anyways, I had no choice I had to pull the lower intake manifold. I hated this. It was about 20 degrees in my garage (no heat).
This is was my first time taking a engine this much apart. But I wound up doing everything correctly and the little nut was sitting right next to the valve. Lucky it didn't make it's way into the cylinder. Put the distributer back on (had it set for Top of cylinder #1 before taking it off. So, far no leaks of any sort detected. Put new gaskets and seals everywhere. The bracket to the fuel injector assembly is made to be alittle loose so it can align itself up with the big hole it fits into.

Anyways back to the problem again with the loss of power thing. I'm still working on it. A new ECM is on it's way. In the mean time I found transmission fluid inside my intake manifold. Alot of it. It was also it my vacuum lines. The ball Canister mounter underside of the hood was about half filled with transmission fluid. This I noticed awhile agobefore and cleaned it all out but I was still sucking in this fluid from somewhere. Turns out it was comming from the vacuum switch on the transfer case. I replaced that andno morefluid in my line anymore.
Now,I wonder what problems this may cause when this happens. Drawing a vacuum on my transfer case,lots of fluid in my vacuum line. Transmission fluid in my upper and lower intake manifold. Probably being burnedalongwith my air/fuel mixture. (Could explain that funny exhaust smell I was getting). How this could affect my O2 sensors?Was I getting poorvacuum on heaver engine loads or fast acceleration? I don't know if this corrected my Loss of power problem yet. I drove to workthis morning and no problem. My drive back home will put a heaver load on the engine because its almost all up hill (30 miles).
I monitored my O2 sensors and fueltrims on the way to work and they were looking really good. Better then I've ever seen. Still Iwent easy on the engine. No fast acceleratingand kept it at 65mph or less. I'm still putting in the new computer but wondering if the whole time it could have been transmission fluid getting into everything that may have been causing the problem or at least adding to it.

Brian

 

You will want to make sure that you pull the fill plug on the transfer case. I'm betting that the seal at the front of the transfer case has failed and is filling up your TC with trans fluid, aiding a faulty switch in delivering trans fluid throughout the vacuum system.

As far as everything else is concerned, I would just watch what happens and replace as necessary.

 

Isn't the transfercase suppose to have tranny fluid in it? Thought I read somewhere that it is suppose to. My transmission fluid level seems normal but will check it again hot. The fluid I was seeing looked alittle redish but more brown in color. I'm assuming it is transmission fluid because I thought the transfer case takes that kind.

Thanks,
Brian