Yes, depending on the transfer case. If you have Auto4wd, it should be Autotrak 2 fluid (blue) in the transfer case.

Regardless, if you pull the FILL plug (upper plug on the back of the transfer case) and fluid pours out, it is over full. Chances are someone didn't get creative and fill the transfer case with the blazer balancing on its front bumper. LOL! That leaves one other possibility, migration of fluid from the transmission into the transfer case past a faulty transfer case input seal.

 

Think it may be low as if I put it in 4Hi it make a loud clunk noise but works. I down use 4 wheel drive much only going up my snow covered driveway. Like trying to climb a snow covered wall it's so steep. Will check the level when I get back home tonight. Think I still have owners manual to see what it needs for fluid.

Brian

 

Maybe I can put an end to this saga now. It seems problem is resolved with the power loss. Drove home last night and as usual I was expecting the power loss to occur about half way home. It never happened. Only a slight buck of the engine acouple times. Probably left over fluidstill sitting in the intake manifold or vacuum lines.Everything was solid as far as my O2 sensors and fuel trims. I am hearing a funny noise from the engine compartment though not sure what it is but sounds like a loud ticking or clicking noise. Almost sounds like the same noise I hear if my antilock brakes system was engaging but at a much slower rate.
Anyways, I not going to totally write this off as completely resolved because I did that once before and the problem reappeared again a few days later. But to me it looks like I might have solved it. Mainly because my O2 sensors and fueltrims are looking very good now. Before my fueltrims were all over the place. They peak to about 3% now. I've seen them go alot higher. There is still abit of hesitation on a quick acceleration. But maybe that is to be expected from an engine with almost 200k miles on it. I think my cat may be bad though because the O2 after the cat is outputing the same voltages as the one before it. Thinking it is not suppose to be doing that. It goes to about .8 volts high. Its still switches just going higher then I think it should.

Brian

 

I wouldn't worry about the cat until you get a code something to the affect of catalyst efficiency.

 

Dr. swartlkk,

Yes me again. Been away from here for alittle while maybe a week or so. Well as I have done acouple times in the past on here I think I fixed my problem only for it to come right on back and hit me in the head.

Really thought I had the Power loss problem figured out and fixed. As I last left off I was finding transfer case fluid in my vacuum
lines, and intake manifold. Replaced the vacuum switch on the Transfer case and cleared out my vacuum lines. Did all that right after taking off the intake manifold and plenum and assorted other stuff. The blazer was sitting in my garage for 2 weeks till I finally got it all back together.
Drove the car to work and back all week and no loss of power at all. Probably the best I've seen it in almost a year. Only a slight engine stumble (hard to explain what it was). Kinda like when I had a bad ignition switch. Where the car would lose complete power for just a split second and then be OK. Hardly noticeable, like hitting a smallpot hole was the feeling.
But anyways the weather all week was great, clear skys, no snow or rain, and dry roads except for last friday night on the way home heavy snow, Slushy roads, Water all over the place. And the Loss of engine power on heavy acceleration or uphill driving came back.
Reason I'm mentioning the weather and road conditions as well as the car sitting in my garage for two weeks is that I'm finding it strange that the problem came back on when the weather turned bad and the car got really wet. I really don't know if that really has anything to do with the problem at all. Just find it odd. Also, there was a time period late summer or early fall that the car was working very good. As soon as Fall arrived and started getting lots of rain it came back also. Been thinking maybe I've got an electrical problem somewhere. But not absolutely sure. Maybe something shorts out as it get wet under the car. Just like my fuel pump electrical connectordid (wet and green corrosion inside). This is just one assumption I having.

The other thing is I got a rebuilt or refurbished ECM/VCM computer with my VIN programmed into it. Put it in and still having the same power loss problem. So, Guess that can be eliminated as a possible cause.

Checked fuel pressure today again and with key on acouple time to bring up pressure I was getting 60 Psi, with engine running it was about 51 psi. But slightly vibrating really fast maybe between 50 - 52 psi. I manually increased throttle(fast)to watch the pressure and it would climb to about 60 PSI and drop back to about 50 to 52.Car was pretty warmed up and was at operating temp.I was watching the pressure and slower but steady increase on the throttle and the fuel pressure was now dropping to 45 PSI instead of going up to 60psi.I didn't get to view my code scanner to see what my fuel trims were doing but I did get a backfire from the throttle body.

Question I have now is if my 02 sensors drop out to 0 volts and my fuel trimsgo high (maxed out) would that cause my fuel pressure to drop to 45 psi. Causing the engine to now starve for fuel. You need what 50 Psi to open poppet valves? Just trying to figure out this mess.
Or, is it that the fuel pump can't provide enough fuel pressure, the engines gets no fuel, causing 02 sensors to go to 0 volts (no fuel being burned)and fuel trims to rise?

Also fuel pressure is not held after turning engine off. After a few minutes it drops from 60 to 40 PSI and even lowerafter more time passes.

I'm assuming my pressure regulator is OK it was new and pressure while engine is running was about 52 psi. Could be fuel pump is leaking fuel back into itself after it is turned off. The have a check valve on the pressurized line?

I'm getting the itch to pull the stupid fuel pump out againand return it.

Sorry didn't mean to

 

Really sounds like the catalytic converter.. Did you try removing the o2 sensor after the cat

 

I'm experiencing the same exact problem. Everything that I have thought about doing is what you did. Did you ever solve this problem?

Basically the problem that I’m experiencing is my 99 Blazer has a power loss sometimes and other times it runs fine. When the outside air temperature is above 80 degrees F and after sitting for several hours it always runs fine for about 15 minutes of operation, then it will start losing power when any more than about 1/3 – 1/2 throttle is used. It does not die, it just stumbles badly and backfires through the throttle body sometimes. If the outside air temp is below 80 degrees F it runs fine all of the time. Shutting it off and restarting in a short time does not change anything.

The RPM does not matter either, I can stay in a lower gear and gradually speed up all the way to redline if I want to, as long as I don’t open the throttle too far. When flooring it in neutral, it will stumble and maintain around 2000-3000 RPM’s but won’t go any higher.

This problem was not happening before I had the fuel pump replaced in February when it was cold and I first noticed it in April when we had our first days above 80 degrees, I figured it could not be the fuel pump since it was just replaced, so I started looking other places and nothing has stood out as the problem based on the symptoms.

I replaced the fuel filter also. Is there more than one fuel filter? If so, I replaced the one on the frame rail under the drivers seat.

Thanks

 

I am having very much the same problem with my 03 Blazer. Did you ever find a solution to this?

Thanks!

 

make that number 3 with the same issue... btw.. I replaced my cat since it was EMPTY.... and that didnt do it either... new vcm-a, icm,coil, plugs,wires, fuel filter, fuel pump, fpr,tps, map, cat,vac lines, cleaned iac, egr, wiring harness pulled out/resoldered, and #6 supplumental ground to each ground point.. so any solutions yet???

 

It looks like it was the Fuel Pump after all, it had it replaced again under warranty and the problem is gone.