Yup, seems like about $20. Tell the parts store it's for 2003 through 2005, (X engine).

 

well got the injectors replaced and still running the same as it did before I done anything to it.


after replacing the injectors I drilled about 5 3/8 in holes into the front of the cat. let it run for about 5 - 10 min and seen that the cat was glowing red. so I cut it off and still the same thing. it seemed to run a bit better after cutting the cat off but it still runs horrible.


I made sure that the new injectors were not leaking by hooking them up without the plenum on and priming the pump. no leaks.


bank 1 o2 sensor voltage on scan tool steady .955 volts
bank 2 sensor 1 .755 - .855 steady
both do NOT go up or down.


short term fuel trims are both at negative -30.5% after cutting the cat it seemed to jump around a bit but then a steady negative -30.5% after warming up a bit.
I have swapped maf and coil with a known working one. still same.
I have a video here of it running without the cat with tune up new injectors and map sensor.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMKx...ature=youtu.be

 

Check the plug wire routing. Notice 1 & 3 are not in order front to back, like the passenger side is.





Along that same line, are you sure you installed the injectors into the correct cylinders? Passenger side is in order front to back, driver side requires re-routing the injector lines for 1 and 3. This video explains:

 

I have double checked the plug wires. they are in there correct places. as well as the injector hoses.


it is running the same as it did before I did anything to it.

 

Well I have checked timing and found it to be spot on. tdc and rotor points directly at the 6 on the dizzy.


but I have notices a bit of slop in the dizzy. a bit of up and down movement and left and right. but no side to side movement in the bushing.


so here's another video I made to show the slop in the dizzy.

 

Did you check the EGR? The way it stalled and is starting/idling sounds familiar.

 

You will feel air pushing out of the plug hole on both the exhaust and the compression strokes. Which means the rotor could point to the 6, or 180 degrees opposite. #1 piston must be at TDC of the compression stroke when the rotor points to the 6. Best way to make sure, is to crank the engine using the starter and listen to the air pushing out. It will be noticeably stronger on the compression stroke. You'll never be able to tell the difference turning it over by hand.

The vertical and rotational distributor shaft movement that you are seeing is normal. It is possible that the drive gear teeth are worn, but you'll need to remove the distributor to check for that. Side to side shaft movement is unacceptable, but yours appears fine, (difficult to tell for sure in the video).

 

Ok. What else do you think it could be. I cleaned the egr. Didnt look bad at all. Let me know what else i should be checking and i will get back to you with results. Thanks

 

I don't mean to keep insisting on the EGR, as they seldom go bad, but here's a simple test for the solenoid. Remove the connector to expose the pins on the EGR and with a multimeter, check the ohm resistance between the pins on either end of the MALE connector on the EGR.

It should read between 8-9 ohms if the solenoid is ok. Note that when I checked mine it read 7.5 ohms until I took if off the manifold and brought it in to warm up (it's 20 degrees here).

 

Your O2 sensors and fuel trims, along with a glowing cat, all confirm a rich condition. Possibilities are: too much fuel, not enough air, or an ignition problem. You can rule out a vacuum leak, and an EGR issue, (both will cause a lean condition). With the engine stone cold, (sit for 10 hours with the engine off) connect the scan tool, turn the ignition to the ON position, (do not start the engine). Make a note of the IAT and ECT sensor readings, outside (ambient) temperature, along with ATF fluid temp if possible. Post those readings.