You wouldn't remember about when that was, would you? I am looking, but haven't found yet. I will beat this thing yet, it is starting to become a matter of "principle". Thanks.

 

Sorry, unfortunately I cannot view photobucket pictures from work so it is quite difficult for me to find them and I can't just repost them either (photobucket.com is blocked). Maybe tonight after fire practice I can either look them up or just post them back here.

 

Don't go to too much trouble, you have been very helpful already.

 

Lets see if this works... Here's a link to my NV233 album on my Photobucket account (thanks to my phone). Hopefully that works. I'm not sure how to view/modify my album properties from the Photobucket application on my phone. If it comes up as password protected, I'll have to post the pictures (and two videos apparently) when I get a chance tonight.

 

Here is some info on the NP233 Transfer Case, Electric shifter and Encoder Switch;

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/837001/EncoderSwitch.JPG

This shows what happens in various places as the motor runs the gears. With the computer unplugged, you can apply (+) and (-) to the "Red" And "Black" wires, or the pins they connect to. + to Red drive toward 4lo, + to Black drives to 2hi.

If the motor works, and and if you rock the drive shafts slightly when the gears hang, you can force the TC to any position. With four simple light bulbs, each with a connection to 12V on one side and a connection to A B C and P on the other side, you can tell where the encoder is. Granted, you may not care about all that if you are only trying to get 2hi. Simply put Neg or ground to the Red wire, and 12 V positive on the Black wire. The motor should draw 5 amps or so. Rock the drive shafts (one wheel off the ground).

Be careful no to leave the current hooked up more than a few seconds. When the shifter is in 2Hi, you should measure closed (short circuit, or low Ohms reading) on encoder pins A and B but C will be Open, or high Ohms. P will be grounded only if you stop at exactly 20 degrees on the encoder, this is what the computer does, but if you overrun till the mechanical end stop, "P" will lose it's ground, but you will still be in 2 Hi.

The drawing attached show that "P" shorts to ground in each encoder spot where the computer will try to stop the motor. P grounded however does not indicate WHICH possition the shifter is in, that's done by A B and C;

C grounded and A-B not when P gets grounded tells "4lo", 330 degrees
B grounded and A-C not when P gets grounded tells "4hi", 0 or 360 degrees
A-B grounded and C not when P gets grounded tells "2hi". 20 degrees

Notice, there is a "N" position when it's no longer in "hi" and not yet in "lo". Some have tried to get the 233 in this position for towing but have found that while the input shaft may be in N, the case is already in 4Wheel drive! Not good for towing.

 

Well the downward spiral continues. I tried to force the TC back to 2H by powering the black, and grounding the red as described, nada. I tried to use the buttons again with the TCCM hooked up, nada, no movement.
So, is there any other way besides taking the encoder motor off? What is the trick to get the drive shaft off? Some of threads talk about the difficulty. The front bolts came out fine, is there a snap ring in the back?
I am now needing to get back to being able to drive this monster, forget 4x4! RABBB

 

If directly powering the encoder did nothing, then the electronic motor portion of the encoder motor assembly is probably fried. Testing the resistance across the coil before and after applying power would confirm that theory. If either reads infinite resistance, or really high resistance, then the encoder motor is gone.

Here are a picture that I took of my uncle's NV233C encoder motor that shows a stripped gear. The partial gear segment is what attaches to the shift sector shaft in the transfer case.

 

OK I am headed that way.

 

I was able to remove the front driveshaft and the encoder motor. The TC was stuck in 4lo with the stub at about the 10 o'clock position, I moved to the 2 o'clock position which should be 2 hi. With all four wheels jacked up I put it in gear to verify it was in 2 hi. It was certainly in high. My question is, should the stub shaft out of the TC for the front drive shaft still turn since it has no resistance on it?

 

It may move without the driveshaft and other components which add to the parasitic drag in the front driveline connected, but should be easily stopped and held stationary if in 2HI. Try taking the handle end of a hammer & pressing it against the front output shaft with the vehicle up on jackstands such that all 4 wheels are in the air. Have an assistant put the vehicle in drive. Press on the front output and see if it stops. If it doesn't, then the transfer case is in 4HI. Alternatively, you could leave it in park and try to turn the front output. If it doesn't move, then the transfer case is in 4HI.