I don't think I have ever had the screwbuster fail me. The good thing about it is if you need more inward pressure just squeeze the trigger more. Be sure to work it slowly as you put more presssure on. I like to kinda rock it back and forth (loosen/tighten) as I pull the trigger on the hammer/gun. That's a pretty big bolt to be drilling out. Hate it when that happens.

 

The drivers side torx bolt goes through the floorboard so you can hit it with PBlaster from below. The passenger side goes to an enclosed area of the floor board with no access from underneath.

 

I love it when I find a "cool tool" I can add to my collection!

Thanks

 

Well this is it bro. Saved my *** more times than I can count. I'd definately go with the 8" one. You can buy adapters for screws or just use it on bolts.

 

I don't see the need for buying a special tool when a drill you already own will have the job done in say a hour. How long is it going to take to locate the tool? How much does it cost? How much gas to go and pick it up, and while your out your going to spend money on lunch or dinner!!!
Break out the drill, find a good sharp bit, or sharpen it yourself and have it done in less time that it take to break a sweat. It's just one or two bolts.
I did mine with a 20 year old Craftsman 3/8" drill and a cheap set of bits from Harbor Freight. Then chases the thread with a 1/2-13 tap and an adjustable wrench.
Get'r'Done!!

 

To each his own. I use mine all the time and have for the 15 years I've owned it. Besides, I put the same bolt back in. They usually don't sell these tools everywhere anyway. The guy wanted to get the bolt out. This is my suggestion. If he wants to use a drill bit more power to him. I wouldn't (and haven't on my 84 Jimmy about 5 years ago and will use it again (probably) this year when I take it out again.

 

@ Dan 128:

The only reason I don't want to use a drill to bust it out and then retap the hole is because of the integrity of the seatbelt's strength. Personally I don't want to mess with something like that, plus it gave me an excuse to finally buy an air compressor and an impact wrench set More updates this weekend!

 

I had the same problem a few weeks ago with mine. As it turned out, after calling my Pops, I was informed that GM likes to screw with their customers and throw in odd sized nuts and bolts on their vehicles. If I'm not mistaken that one (and the ones that hold on the spare tire mount) is a 47 Torx. I went and bought one and keep in my truck just in case.

 

I tried a T47 and a T50 and found that the T50 fit better.

 

Have you tried penetrating oil on the threads from the underside as others have suggested? If you're having trouble locating it just measure the distance from the screw's head to the door jam. Line your eyeballs up with the screw, measure out the same distance on the under side of the floorboard and look in that general area. Heat the threads with a hand-held torch and shoot it with penetrating oil while it's still warm. Let it sit for a few minutes so the penetrating oil can migrate into the threads then remove the screw. If that doesn't do it then the drilling/e-z out routine may be your only option - especially if the head of the torx screw has been stripprd out from unsucessful removal attempts.