Hello,

guys I am terrible sorry. I am feeding you bad information and making things more difficult than they are.

My bravada is not 1998 but 1999 so I found this:


When I recently added the drive shaft, "electronic actuated clutch" must have engaged. This is what I want to disengage.

I have the front driveshaft removed at the moment.


Again, I am terribly sorry and hope this helps some more.


Best regards,

UBER__

 

I already told you how to make it the next thing to a stock 2wd, with a minimum of cost and bother. No front diff drag and it wount matter whether the diff is broken or not. It wont matter whether the transfer case is engaged or not.
I dont know what more I can tell you... disengaging or engaging assembly will have no effect.
I told you to keep the transfer case full of fluid, that's all you have to do.. and disregard or tape over service awd.

If you want to get the AWD working then do the GM tech fluid treatment as 2000 said. It may fix it, it may not.
The clutches may be too far gone. According to what you wrote the front diff may have a problem

Figure it out do you want to go 2wd or not.

Just an FYI, in case you're wondering..Taking the transfer case off without a transmission change or rebuild is not a viable option.
You do what you want. But just DO IT!

 

The RP stuff is more expensive (to the tune of ~2x) than Autotrak 2 last time I checked so why waste your money? The GM fluid is synthetic so there would be no gain going to RP unless you buy into their 'creative' marketing, but that's a whole other discussion. Even if you don't want to go to the dealership, you should be able to plan far enough ahead that an internet purchase (many online retailers carry Autotrak 2 fluid) shouldn't be out of the question.

To the OP, as PF stated, doing a few transfer case services using GM Autotrak 2 fluid may flush out the clutch pack & restore the proper operation of your transfer case.

 

I was just skimming through this thread bc i have a bravada. no awd problems thankfully. but i noticed the big deal about not having the cv spline in the hub. and this proves my theory correct to the dummie at autozone. anyways always built and drove hondas. And with them you dnt have to have cvs for it to be a rolling shell. well couple weeks ago i was doing some work on my gfs 89 chevy k1500 4x4 was going to put new cvs in. the old ones the mech took out for her but left the splines in. i thought to myself "why did he half *** it and not take the whole thing out. well in experienced me took one of them out put the wheel back on bc my gf had to go ina hurry.. 10 min later i get a call. wheel hub blew apart on the highway and the wheel couldnt roll or turn anymore it had to be towed(with a towtruck).. so what a coincsedince that it was the same tire i worked on.. i didnt want to give in that it was my fault at first but then i got the new wheel bearing hub assem. part and first thing i saw was an axle nut torque spec booklet that came with the hub. so i asked the autozone (manager) about it and he said the cv shaft shouldnt have any affect on the hub.. But everything that happend and now ready this proves that YES you do need to leave the splines in! or you will flatout dirt roll your rig or better yet your gfs truck! And ya when i got the new hub before eveb knowing for sure if the cv had anything to do with it i did put the spline back in! wasnt going to take a chance and f up the same thing twice. truck has been rolling good ever since.