MIR LCK fuse in underhood fuseblock. 3A as I recall. (mine was blown when I bought my truck used too) If the 4WD worked before the engine swap I'd start by checking the vacuum lines to see if they left one unhooked. Might be a good place to start by checking all the fuses in that underhood block with a continuity tester, maybe the codes are connected by a missing power source to the PCM?

 

Your rite about the hose. the guy that did the motor cut the vac supply line the the 4x4 switch on the xfer case. But I still think the switch is bad. So I bought a new one I will let you know tomorrow how that works out.

I keep getting code 122. I reset it and within 2 min. of running it comes in. Where is the TPS and should I just replace it I don't have the tools to trouble shoot it? The other two codes haven't come in yet so I figured I'd fix this one first and do the other two when they come in.

I am getting so excited it is almost rode worthy. I just can't get out of my driveway without 4 wheel drive.

Any other thoughts about the mirrors? I don't have a fuse bow under the hood and the locks work. I am **** I want everything to work and work rite.

THANK YOU

Well it seems the threads die half way into the fix. I have spent hours seaching past posts and so far the administrator has come up with the best answers to my questions.

I have fixed the 4x4 issues of the front hubs not engaging. It seems that they did cut a hose that supplies vacuum to the switch on the transfer case. I checked there and there was 15 inches of vacuum to the firewall where they cut the hose. I fixed that but in the mean time I bought a new switch for 47 dollars. I fixed the hose and there was only 4 inches at the actuator so I figured it had to be the switch. While replacing the switch I had the truck slide off the jack while I was jacking it up. It went into the open area between the motor and radiator so I thought I got off lucky. If you have read my posts that just isn't me. I started the truck to see if the axial locks in. Well it didn't and there was oil poring out of the oil filter. I guess when it slipped off the jack it sheered the oil line the the radiator. So while it was down and I was searching for the hoses I troubled shoot the vacuum system. I wasn't drawing any vacuum in the hose that leads to the transfer case. While I was checking I tried to pull the hose off the vacuum can and snapped off the fitting so now I need another part. I disconnected the switch and tried to draw a vacuum on the hose from the engine. It didn't work. So reaching into my parts box I pulled out a 2 foot piece of vacuum hose and connected it to the hose to the hose splice on the passenger side of the transfer case and pulled it over the xfer case. I inspected the hose and it was worn through in the part that was over the transfer case. So if your keeping track to get my front axial to engage I have bought a new switch 47 bucks, I found the hoses and vacuum ball and that together cost 40 bucks. Then I needed oil too that was 20. So the repair that should have been free cost me 107 dollars so far. But the 4 wheel drive works. But I can't seem to get the oil filter housing to hose block to stop leaking. I tried rtv when I first put it together and that didn't work for even a Minuit. So I used O rings and that seemed to work but only for a while. Now the oil is pouring out. So what am I supposed to use to get it to seal? There were no gas cuts or O rings when I took it apart so I thought it should seal.

I really am starting to hate this damn thing. Any one want to buy it off me?

So the moral of this story is don't over think it when your trouble shooting. Get back to basics and take nothing for granted. Think before you buy. I should have traced the hoses down and checked them all for issues first.

I did fix the p0122 code I replaced the tps and that cleared up the code and the idling issues.