Rockhead, Serrasalmus brought up a good point and 4x4Blazerguy and Logan hit on that earlier, but let me ask you this; Is this all being tested while sitting in the garage or does the compressor shut off while driving ? If you are carrying enough charge high and low is the compressor just losing power ? Check the circuit breaker on the fuse block and see if it is corroded . At the point when the compressor should be running and isn't, wiggle the breaker on the fuse block and see if it kicks on. You are getting some good tips from guys that sound like they know what they're doing and I work with and respect techs like that but sometimes you gotta take it all the way back to the initial power entry point, youknow, like the initial step and work your way towards resolution. That was the problem on my '00 and the Evap is cold as ice,now.Good luck.

 

Could be something as simple as the clutch cycling switch being stuck on. If that's the case, the evaporator would flood with refrigerant and freeze. High pressure would rise and the high pressure cut out switch would shut the compressor off. But as mentioned, gotta have manifold gauges to check pressures. A/C is pretty simple to diagnose & repair, but ya gotta have the tools

 

Thanks everyone for the replies. Captain Hook you may have hit on something. And to provide what I know to the rest of the replies. Yes I did change the orfice tube and I did flush the system the best I could. The A/C quits while driving down the road with the A/C on continuously and switching it on to cool the inside down then turning it off when it got comfortable. After about 5 cycles it quit when the A/C was on. Captain Hook brought up something that differs from my Ford Ranger. When the A/C switch is on the clutch doesn't cycle like on the ranger it runs all the time. I just thought it was a difference between the two systems. If the clutch is not supposed to turn all the time that is the path I need to pursue because when the A/C quits the clutch is not turning. When the A/C works it is turning. Where should I go from here? Still not home to get some pressures. Thanks to all. Looking forward to your replies.

 

Most auto manufacturers switched to CCOT, (Clutch Cycling Orifice Tube) systems around 1980 to provide better fuel economy, (and worse A/C performance). Your Ranger most likely has a CCOT system Easy way to tell if the clutch should cycle on a given vehicle: If it has a fixed orifice tube, and a cycling switch on the accumulator, the clutch should cycle. There are several things that determine total clutch cycle time from very rapid, to continuously on, such as ambient temperature, humidity, sun load, condition of engine cooling system, condition of the entire A/C system, amount of refrigerant and oil charge, etc etc. Under "normal" conditions, the cycling switch activates the clutch when low side pressure is ~42psi and higher. It deactivates the clutch when low side pressure drops to ~22psi and the cycle repeats. If the clutch remains on, (does not cycle), high side pressure will skyrocket. When it reaches ~400psi the cut out switch on the compressor will deactivate the clutch to prevent catastrophic damage to the system, (blow a line or the compressor, etc).

 

Sounds like it's low on Freon.
If thats not it,, its either the Relay or the Cycle Switch aka Low-High Pressure Switch.
Theres really not much else that could cause that.

Good Luck
Please Post your solution when you get it figured out.