Alternator Problem
#21
06-27-2011, 09:22 AM
im with you. the regulator is the problem. on a 2500mile trip to mexico in my buddies 2000 silverado we were maxing it out and asnytime going up a hill it would down shift to about 4500rpms and the gauge would drop to 11v and depending on the rpm i redlined it and it droped to 9 and battery light came on. we ended up geting stranded in michoacan, bad place to be stranded in mexico. took us 2 hours to find a regualtor and 1 hour for the mechanic to sauter it on being we didnt feel like spending $3000 pesos or $275 DOLARS ON A NEW ALT. ps MEXICO ELECTRONICS ARE 2X MORE THEN AMERICA. long story short the regulator was the problem. got a new alternator and it fixed it. also get a new battery while your at it or your guna be stuck someware also. being your running n amp i would get the Optima battery i have its 900cca and 1000a. mines costed $230 but i got ripped off i see them at autozone or O-Riley auto for around $160-$180, just remember to get the RED TOP. fits right in the blazer like a charm.. also comes with a 6 year warrenty and i believe a 2 year free replacment warrenty
#24
06-28-2011, 02:29 AM
a slipping belt would generally be affected by weather conditions and the load on the belt. My issue is at 4000 rpm and above. Nothing changes it at all. I am leaning towards the PCM.
#26
06-28-2011, 08:24 PM
I had a similar problem on my 98 Blazer (voltage dipped when reving the engine). Had everything tested as you described- alternator, battery, etc and all checked out ok. Turns out the connector that plugs into the alternators regulator had corroded pins. Soldered in a new connector and all was well.
Just a thought...
Just a thought...
#27
06-29-2011, 04:30 AM
alternator wasnt loud at all. just needed a new rgulator. now on my truck it was loud because it needed new bearings. just accelerate to were it to when it starts dropping voltage, if it stays like that the whole time the voltage is dropped its the regulator. best thing is to just get a new alternator from autozone. only like $90 for valucraft. but i got the duralast for $110 with core exchange.
and PS i dout the belt would slip on the alternator, being the alternator really isnt putting any load on the belt like the water/ac pumps would, and if it was slipping you would probably hear/smell it
and PS i dout the belt would slip on the alternator, being the alternator really isnt putting any load on the belt like the water/ac pumps would, and if it was slipping you would probably hear/smell it
Last edited by chaoticdopey; 06-29-2011 at 04:32 AM.
#28
06-29-2011, 10:06 AM
I dont think its the belt. this weekend i will clean the cables and see what will happen. if i wanna replace it i wanna go with a bigger alternator which one would it fit. i saw on this forum some people used tahoe alternator but im not sure
#29
06-29-2011, 06:06 PM
well i was told by my friend who does car audio installs that if im going to put a bigger alt in my truck that i would need an extra battery for the extra amperages. stock on these is 105 amps. i believe my friend being he has 5 batteries and 2 iraggi alternators i believe they are 180 amps each being hes powering over 16k watts for his subs and amps but then again those iraggi alts are about $300+