Another overheating issue
#11
That's pretty much identical to my experiences. You can try a chemical flush but I've never had much luck with them and after wasting time and money wind up replacing the radiator. The heater core may or may not be plugged again as an air pocket can cause the same symptoms. Connecting a garden hose to the heater core will tell whether it's clogged or not.
#12
Uhoh. I used the peak brand flush kit. It involved cutting the heater core outlet hose in half, fitting a T inlet to both ends, then attaching a water hose to the t inlet. Open the rad cap, start engine and start garden hose. It seemed to work very well as it remedied all symptoms for a short time, are you saying it may have damaged something?
Someone on the Mustang NG told me later the core mfrs began warning not to do that so I apparently wasnt the only one.
#13
Oh! oops, live and learn right? I've made my share of mistakes too.
I guess the next step is to order a new rad. I'll flush the system again immediately change the radiator. Hopefully this works!
By the way, I really appreciate all of you being so kind and friendly to a newcomer such as myself.
I guess the next step is to order a new rad. I'll flush the system again immediately change the radiator. Hopefully this works!
By the way, I really appreciate all of you being so kind and friendly to a newcomer such as myself.
#14
Perhaps...perhaps not. I had a situation once where the heater worked fine using the T adapter but when I removed the T air would go into the core and wouldn't let the water through. Burping didn't seem to help but when I was on a trip a few days later it magically cleared and I had heat. Many of here have used the garden hose connected directly to the heater core. Using the T with the radiator cap usually will not clear a clogged core as the water will take the path of least resistance, bypass the core and go out the radiator. You just have to be careful to not have over 50lbs of pressure so you don't blow the core.
Last edited by dobyken; 10-16-2011 at 08:57 AM.
#15
Hmm, path of least resistance, that makes excellent sense. since the heater hose is cut I just remove the t inlet and run the garden hose yeah? Don't even have to remove the radiator cap. One question, should I put the garden hose with the water streaming into the firewall or the other way around? I think away from firewall would be best so the water doesn't clog the rest if the system in the way out.
#16
Hmm, path of least resistance, that makes excellent sense. since the heater hose is cut I just remove the t inlet and run the garden hose yeah? Don't even have to remove the radiator cap. One question, should I put the garden hose with the water streaming into the firewall or the other way around? I think away from firewall would be best so the water doesn't clog the rest if the system in the way out.
#17
Well, here's the news. Flushed it again, heat works, temp gauge won't even budge from its initial resting point, there is a pinhole leak in the metal housing that connects to the thermostat, and when I ran the truck with the rad cap open a "foam" came out if the radiator. Blown head?
#18
Foam generally equals air, let it run for a while with the cap half on... the system may still need burped.
Unless the foam is brownish, then it sounds like the head
Unless the foam is brownish, then it sounds like the head
Last edited by swartlkk; 10-18-2011 at 02:23 PM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the edit function to add additional information in your post if another member has yet to respond.
#19
Well, here's the news. Flushed it again, heat works, temp gauge won't even budge from its initial resting point, there is a pinhole leak in the metal housing that connects to the thermostat, and when I ran the truck with the rad cap open a "foam" came out if the radiator. Blown head?
#20
Will do a combustion test asap. Apparently the thermostat is a fail safe you're which locks fully open if the vehicle overheats even once. Which explains the temp gauge. (duh)