is this the piece i need to check?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...PSESWAMS_____#

 

Ok no one here is Seeing the start of the problem
Base base takes power
I need to know a list straight down to the head unit
how many amps what kinde of amps watts size fuses also
it looks like to me your driveing the base hard
do you have any Capacitors in line?
if so what size
Alternator / Generator is it stock
Battery how big how many
there is math to do here when you run a system
Hell depending on how much power you are useing you may need a to run a Battery and Alternator just for the system

Whats is happening with you dash and blazed when you turn up the base is your steeling the power your blazer needs to run the way it needs to your droping your volts below 12 volts and your computers and going stupid
now it may have been fine when you first installed the system but it only works so long befor you start burning stuff out
Dude I have built systems for car raidos and CB raidos between the 2 CB raidos are the hardest but Car raidos can be just as hard

 

ok first off not a noob on car audio at all. been in car audio for 7 years and you can rule the audio system out. full tilt the system is only dropping to 13.2. i have a second battery in the rear. If you take the time to read all the posts you would have seen that system has been uninstalled. Also if you believe that just dropping voltage to under 12v will cause damage that fast thats insane. I've seen systems drop under 10v while playing music constantly and the electrical systems are fine.

 

Im not gona fight with ya but I am 40 years old I have done systems you only see in mags not as perty but just as powerfull
Hell I installed V12s when they came out I understand the tek has come a long way since I had my system in with my old school stuff but cars have also and they are touchy and depend on a constant stedy feed

like I said before it may work fine at first then it takes its tole on the electronics in the car

running 2 Battery on a stock Alternator may not do it
banging around the volts between 14.2 and 10 volts dont help
that where the Capacitors come in to stop that power spike like a surge protector
the volts drop below 12 volts and pop back up then drop then up again
the computers dont like that they think theres problems

this is your car not someone elses so what you have seen dosent mean it will work the same for every car or truck

I didnt call you a noob you did and what I read about the system looked like it was brushed to the side

Let me ask this when you dont use your system for a whole day or week dose it happen
no well maybe you should look in to what im saying insted of snaping
yes then Im sorry and Im too old for this thred and Ill back away
Happy Hunting

 

Let's keep it civil, folks.

 

sorry about that seemed like he came on a little 2 strong.


anyway. Can anyone else put add some input?

 

Have you clicked on the link Kyle suggested earlier in this thread?

It has pictures in it detailing what to look for as well as a link to a writeup to replace the switch, which also includes pictures of the part in question.

We can't do it for you, so you need to read the research that's already been done here and apply it to your situation.

If you're unsure or uncomfortable with doing the actual testing, it may be time to send it to a shop to have them do it for you.

 

not yet because i wasnt sure if what i was looking at was the correct thing. is that link i posted a few posts ago the correct part?

 

Yes, the link you posted above is for the ignition switch. There are pictures, wiring diagrams, connector views, as well as links to other threads in the thread I stated would have helped you identify the link you provided as the correct part.

 

ok so i finally tested it and every contact said in between 5-12 ohms. is that bad?