Anyone ever seen this issue before?
#31
went ahead and bought a new ignition module. got it installed and tried the passlock relearn but wont work because security light wont turn on at all. so i cant do anything. also i notice my batt got REALLY low like from 12.6v to 11.7v resting then to 9.8v resting. also all my gauges turn on if i push the odometer/trip reset button and turn back off if i let go..(is that normal?)
#32
When a DISCONNECTED battery drops under 10 volts, within say a day or two of charging, it's dead. They really should over 12V, and need to hold over 10V. The various modules do not like to run under 10 volts either. A connected battery could just be getting drained.
I had to do my ignition switch recently. Fortunately one contact just suddenly died, so it was easy to diagnose. I would have expected it to be more intermittent at first, which could still test good.
I did check the power distribution block first. There are studs that could be cleaned. And the fusible links that power the ignition switch, I poked into the wire to measure across the link. It's under the hood, side wall, just in front of the driver seat - under a plastic cover.
Try checking for voltages with things running, not just ohms.
I had to do my ignition switch recently. Fortunately one contact just suddenly died, so it was easy to diagnose. I would have expected it to be more intermittent at first, which could still test good.
I did check the power distribution block first. There are studs that could be cleaned. And the fusible links that power the ignition switch, I poked into the wire to measure across the link. It's under the hood, side wall, just in front of the driver seat - under a plastic cover.
Try checking for voltages with things running, not just ohms.
#33
When a DISCONNECTED battery drops under 10 volts, within say a day or two of charging, it's dead. They really should over 12V, and need to hold over 10V. The various modules do not like to run under 10 volts either. A connected battery could just be getting drained.
I had to do my ignition switch recently. Fortunately one contact just suddenly died, so it was easy to diagnose. I would have expected it to be more intermittent at first, which could still test good.
I did check the power distribution block first. There are studs that could be cleaned. And the fusible links that power the ignition switch, I poked into the wire to measure across the link. It's under the hood, side wall, just in front of the driver seat - under a plastic cover.
Try checking for voltages with things running, not just ohms.
I had to do my ignition switch recently. Fortunately one contact just suddenly died, so it was easy to diagnose. I would have expected it to be more intermittent at first, which could still test good.
I did check the power distribution block first. There are studs that could be cleaned. And the fusible links that power the ignition switch, I poked into the wire to measure across the link. It's under the hood, side wall, just in front of the driver seat - under a plastic cover.
Try checking for voltages with things running, not just ohms.
#34
Well, I have a 97, it may be different. I have no fuses under the hood. There are "fusible links" which look like heat shrink over wire with some white junk at the ends. It's basically a very slow blow fuse, and can start to act like a resistor under heavy loads (causing voltage to go down). There's a nest of about 8 of them that all run into a plastic box, where they bolt down, I had some corrosion there. Each one feeds a row of fuses in the fuse block.
I don't have a security light, but have seen others. When I tried to get a new keyless remote to work, I had to find several "relearn procedures" before one worked, and they all said they applied to my year/model.
I don't have a security light, but have seen others. When I tried to get a new keyless remote to work, I had to find several "relearn procedures" before one worked, and they all said they applied to my year/model.
#35
ok rechecked everything that was in this article
https://blazerforum.com/forum/articl...-thread-26553/
and attempted the passlock relearn here....
https://blazerforum.com/forum/tech-a...o-learn-41012/
but when following the instructions below but the security light doesnt turn on.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
am I doing something wrong?
does matter if i have an aftermarket alarm?
https://blazerforum.com/forum/articl...-thread-26553/
and attempted the passlock relearn here....
https://blazerforum.com/forum/tech-a...o-learn-41012/
but when following the instructions below but the security light doesnt turn on.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
am I doing something wrong?
does matter if i have an aftermarket alarm?
#36
how the ground on the motor
#37
#38
Can I get swartlkk to help out?
when i turn the key all i hear is a clicking noise.
when i turn the key all i hear is a clicking noise.
#39
#40
got a question for you tho. my aftermarket alarm isnt working. How can i tell (besides tapping on it) if my started is bad?