I have a 2002 zr2 blazer 5spd, its got about 115xxx on it. I'm in colorado I took a trip back home it was an 18hr drive. I had a steady 60mi speed limit there and back. If I went any faster I herd a bunch of grinding and it was almost trying to lock up on me. Know I can't even take it any were because I can take it out of first gear and I don't go anywere its like I'm prety much in neutral except I do move just very slowly it sucks anybody got any idea of what I could do it would be well appreciated.






Oh and p.s. what does everyone thing about takeing the bravada 7.25 solid axle?

Oh and I don't have 4 low or 4hi it'll go into both but your in neutral I've never seen anythin like it

 

Does the switch on the dash have 3 buttons, or 4 buttons?

 

Yeah I here you its 3 I believe its the np233

 

Yup, NV233 is a 2 speed selectable, electric shift case. It does not have "neutral" which makes me think, from your description, that it might be an engine or a clutch/transmission issue. Although, the grinding might be caused by a faulty transfer case vacuum switch:





If it leaks internally, it can cause partial engagement of the right front axle, (usually on acelleration). Simple job to replace it, and the part is under $20.

Is the "Service Engine Soon" light illuminated?

 

True yeah it is but its always been on from an o2 sensor I jus hooked the scanner up to it the other day and I did go ahead and pulled out the rear drive shaft and there is a prety good tick

 

Is the noise coming from the front or rear? Does it go away when you decellerate or select 4WD?

As for the Bravada front axle.... there are several members that have done the swap. The drawback is that the differential is always live which causes fuel mileage to decrease. Also need to "fool" the TCCM: The NV233 has a front axle engagement switch. The NV136 front axle does not have the switch. After the swap, if the switch isn't activated and deactivated when it should, the TCCM will command the encoder motor to revert back to the previous mode.

 

Its comming from the rear and yeah I guess I never did think of that so are you a fan of ifs? And when it first hppnd I was on the road was driving for a little while and stoped got gas and soon as I started taking off got a bunch of grinding stoped let it cl off. Then it was good for a while until I got back on the road started locking up it felt like and it would jus fell like you get hit by something every hr and it just got worse from there

 

SAS and IFS are both fine. It depends how the vehicle was designed. I'm not a fan of changing what the vehicle was designed with. IMHO it's best to leave that to the engineers. I'm not saying they're always right though Their main concern might not necessarilly be "what's best", but rather, "what works for less money/weight".

Maybe there's something messed up in the rear differential. Pull the cover off and look for chunks of steel. Might be some teeth floating around in there.

 

I thought about that to the only thing is idk were you put the diff fluid back in but I did do a little more reserch and I found somthing about the 1998 to 2001 the 2wd and 4wd manual models had troubles with the transmission output shaft seal witch causes oil from the engine to get sucked into the transfer case. It sounded like the transfer case sucked all the fluid out of everything so I pulled the transfer case and drained whatt was in the tranny and it was pretty dark so I got that seal down but how do you think id be able to stop the engine oil going into the tranny

 

So I thought I had a problem with my transfer case but tturns out the 4wd manual transmissions have problems with a trany output shaft seal and causes fluid to get drained to the transfer case so I know how long I've been driving on it but if I fix that seal do y'all think the tranny will still be good with running it dry like that?