OK, I have another question. Over the weekend, I happen to break another ball joint. This happens every 6 freakin' months. I was told that ball joints from a full size pu or Suburban will fit in the S-10 suspension, a direct bolt in. Before I dive into this job and start spending money, I would like to know if this statment is true. Thanks for the input, Guy

 

What do you mean 'break'? Doing what... Are these previously replaced? What brand/price/store?

How about a little background.

 

I snapped, the usual thunk, thunk when you hit a bump or turn to fast. It is driver side and they were replaced 14 months ago. These are Moog brand and they were delivered by Napa, price, i cant think of how much they cost right now. The passenger side was replaced last August, I used Moog also. I used Moog on my 83 Z28. I rebuild the whole front end with all new parts and that car i race in Autocross and get a heavy foot out on the back roads.

 

There is only one thing, other than neglect, (failure to lubricate regularly) that will cause premature wear or failure such as you've experienced... incorrect chassis ride height. The two most common causes are a suspension lift, and or the torsion bars are out of adjustment. Incorrect chassis ride height puts added stress on all 4 ball joints, all 4 CV joints, both outer tie rod ends, and both shocks. Front chassis ride height is the vertical distance between the lower-most inboard point of the steering knuckle, nearest the ball joint, to the center of the lower control arm pivot bolt.

1996 & newer:
4WD (except ZR2) = 4.6” to 5.0” (4.8” is preferred)
4WD ZR2 = 4.6” to 5.2” (4.9” is preferred)

 

And please remember the sway bar. Disconnect one sway link so you arent fighting the other side.

 

I put Kumho all terrain tires on the truck, 255/70-15s. These tires are 1 inch wider and 1 inch higher than the stock Uniroyal Tire Paws (less). I don't think these are the culprit because I was having the problem longer than I had the tires. These tires are fantastic in the rain and the snow. I grease the chassis every third oil change and I change the oil every 3 months, give or take a week. But still, would ball joints from a full size 1500 or 2500 fit on the S-10 suspension?

 

Tire size has no affect on chassis ride height. It's measured from two points on the chassis, which do not change no matter what size tire you have. Lube every 9 months on these things could be considered neglect. Really should be done every 3K miles, (if you want the parts to last) As for joints from a 1500 fitting; I'd say if they're the same Moog part number, they'll fit What year is your T10? Just an FYI, if it's 2WD it's an S10, if it's 4WD it's a T10.

 

I looked at two generations of suburbans.. 1500/2500 and they are press-in. You need to name names when 'someone told me' Actually you need to jump their ****!

But a search led me back here
https://blazerforum.com/forum/suspen...ion-kit-23179/
I followed that link
http://shop.synergyoffroad.com/Power...?categoryId=-1
and it sounds like what you need.
208 bucks for all four.. sweet.

I was gonna object mildy to both points... then thought again.
On Ford cars with bellows types boots, overlubing breaks them allowing dirt in; with cap type boots a shot of lube every oil change moves wear particles out of the joint bearing area.

Also to clarify the point about tires and ride height.. The frame will obv be 1/2 higher with 1 inch taller tire. But the axle center will be also.
So the angle of the A arm wont be changed.

 

As it was said prior, full size ball joints are press in. I can not think on one that is similar.

Your ball joints are under warranty.

 

Thanks guys for the info. And thanks pettyfog for the links, I am going to see if I can grab the ball joint kit, bills come first unfortunately.