I enjoyed a few months of having everything working on my 98, but I was told by the alignment shop after getting new tires, and by another shop I trust that it's upper, lower ball joint time, along with the idler arm.

I'm really hoping this is something I can do myself, as I don't have the $600+ I've been quoted for it. Pisses me off though... One place wanted $180 in labor, but $450 in parts. The other wanted $123 in parts, but almost $500 in labor...

Anyway. Looking online, I can find the parts cheap. The question though, is it worth buying the serviceable versions that have the zerk fittings on them, or just go cheap and replace? I looked, and my Blazer has already had them replaced, I assume, as they are bolted on, not riveted. It has just shy of $130K on it, which means these don't last long. I'm assuming that it might start getting rough to keep at 200K, so maybe just do these and figure these are the last time they'll be replaced?

So, any helpful hints on brands and how to do this? I don't have an indoor place anymore, so I'll likely have to go do this in the freezing yard.

 

Good for you.. you defined you want them to last. So you dont buy cheap, you buy value for money.
That case you buy the ones from reputable long term brands with zerks in them. And you lube them regularly..about twice a year for street vehicle, two shots each fitting
-Even if you buy ones without zerks.. you MUST make sure they are lubed.. trust me, they put in minimum.. fill the boots.

AC Delco Moog TRW Raybestos are good names
'Service grade' means 'get it out the door and sell it'.

Think about that. Where do you think shops cover their 'brought back - redo' labor.. in 'labor'. In other words they are using the cheapest parts.
Dont believe me? Go to Rockauto.. add up the cheap options and double it. Then add up the higher end options, double that.

It's about a 2 hour job for a good tech with all the tools.

If your hubs have more than 30,000 on them dont be surprised if you get a call.

In fact if you do it yourself you should check hub bearing while the axle is out.

 

The place with the $180 labor listed it as 3 hours * $60 hour. it's a small shop in TN, and they don't charge a lot. The other is a shop in an AL college town, where they are used to getting college kid parent money, and they list 4.8 hours at $90/hour. Figures. They listed parts with zerks though. I actually don't know what parts the TN shop speced. For the money, I would hope they would be top of the line stuff.


I'm going to have some basic hand tools, sockets, etc. I don't know if there is anything fancy I need. I know air tools would make it go faster. I have a heavy duty 19.2V cordless ratchet that sometimes will get stuff off quicker.

 

Moogs! Definitely want to get the greaseable ones and keep them lubed up. No reason for a shop to be charging as much to replace ones that are bolted in as they would for the stock ones that were riveted. CONSIDERABLY less time involved with the bolt-ins.

Moog K5335 (4WD lowers) on Amazon
Moog K5320 (4WD uppers) on Amazon

Moog K5208 (2WD uppers) on Amazon
Moog K6145T (2WD lowers) on Amazon

^These are for single pieces, you'll obviously need two of each.

I used RockAuto for the part numbers and plugged them in to Amazon. You may have better luck as far as prices with RockAuto but sometimes shipping is a pain when it comes from multiple locations.

Trust me, I got hosed for $600 when I first had mine replaced and didn't know any better. And that was at $48/hr labor with Moog parts.

 

Jackstands, floor jack, 1/2" drive 36 MM socket, breaker bar, Couple heavy hammers NOT PICKLE FORK! to get ball joint and steering joint pins out.
And a Torque wrench to 200 ft/lbs to tighten axle nut.

Check the DIY pages on here, Google the work and look for youtube how-to's to make your plan

 

I asked about that with regard to the labor. They told me that they tend to _lose_ money doing it for that rate with the riveted ones. I waited till I had left to roll my eyes. It's too bad, because they are a good shop, but they're going to charge what they want. They are never hurting for business, because they work on a lot of really old and interesting vehicles, so they have a niche market.

I'm just hoping that with the bolted in ones, it'll be less of a hassle for me to do.

Thanks for the part numbers. I was looking at the Moogs at Rock Auto actually, but it would be faster to get them from Amazon, given I'm a Prime member. The prices are slightly more on Amazon, but less hassle. I guess those prices for singles... Yikes. Still going to cost me.



Thanks. Will it be easier to do the Idler Arm while I'm doing this, or do I really gain nothing by waiting some? If it doesn't matter much, it would save me $50 for the time being. It it's easier to do with everything else, I guess I can do it. I had planned to do the swaybar end bushings at the same time.

 

$172ish+shipping for 4WD and $88ish+shipping for 2WD. Whole lot better than $600+ and certainly a lot lower than the $450 in parts you were quoted from the first place.

 

https://blazerforum.com/forum/tech-a...acement-27627/

 

I got the Moog ball joints and steering idler arm. I've got a 35mm socket coming.

I know the hubs haven't been replaced in the ~30K I've owned it. Who knows before that. Should I just make sure I have new ones before doing this? Do they really wear out that fast?

Above was mentioned, no pickle forks. Watching a A1Auto video video, I didn't see where one would be used, but it was or the lower ball joints. I guess it's needed on the upper? Or, without it, what do you do use? Large hammer?

 

Use a large hammer and a larger 'anvil' of a sort. I use a framing hammer and head of a sledgehammer. Loosen nut to near the end, Hold anvil against the spindle eye on one side smack hammer on other side, 2 or 3 should do it.