Blazer Died, Now It Won't Start
#1
Blazer Died, Now It Won't Start
Hello, thanks in advance to anyone here that can help me with my problem. My blazer is a 1997 4.3l 4x4. Heres what happened, I was driving down the street about an hour ago when my blazer just shut off, i didnt realize that it shut off so I kept giving it gas. When I realized it was shut off I stopped givng it gas and pulled over. Now It just cranks over but sounds like it doesnt want to start. At the end of each 2-3 second crank there is a bang followed by a release of pressure through my throttle body. When I first turn the key I can hear my fuel pump kick on, but it sounds like its gargling under the hood. I tried spraying starter fluid in the throttle body to see if that would momentarily start, but it did nothing. As of now I am out of ideas of what it could be so if anybody has any ideas please chime in.
Thanks,
Nick
Thanks,
Nick
#2
sounds like a timing problem to me. try unplugging the battery for an hour & a half or so, that should cause your timing to reset.
its a long shot, but its free
its a long shot, but its free
#3
Can the timing get screwed up while driving it?
#4
i really have no idea what could have happened to cause the timing to go off (if thats what it is), but back in the day before i know wtf i was doing with cars, those were the symptoms of me screwing up the timing.
it could be the camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, or knock sensor. those all controll the timing i believe.
only other thing i can think of timing wise besides a computer or a sensor issue, would be one of these 1. the timing chain skipped a tooth (doubtful) 2. distributor was put in wayyyy off from where its supposed to be( no way, you were driving lol).
have you tried checking the codes with a scanner? I think that is your next best step here.
anyone else have any ideas ?
it could be the camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, or knock sensor. those all controll the timing i believe.
only other thing i can think of timing wise besides a computer or a sensor issue, would be one of these 1. the timing chain skipped a tooth (doubtful) 2. distributor was put in wayyyy off from where its supposed to be( no way, you were driving lol).
have you tried checking the codes with a scanner? I think that is your next best step here.
anyone else have any ideas ?
Last edited by jsmz; 01-07-2010 at 12:14 AM.
#5
Road side gas engine to diesel engine swap????????????
#6
Sounds like what my truck did a few weeks ago turned out it was a corroded coil lead, check all leads and dizzy cap. Mine had spark but wasn't enough to kick it into life
#7
Main question: Does it have spark? And is it does, is the spark a good spark? If it does, I would tend to lean toward the timing chain, it very well might have jump a tooth due to wear. I know now days engines aren't as simple of the days of yesterday. Spark, Fuel, Fuel, Spark..now its well..it could be this or that, or maybe this, or maybe that. However, Always start with the basic's Spark, Fuel, Fuel, Spark.
#8
well if hes getting a " bang followed by a release of pressure through my throttle body", then it sounds like there is spark and fuel. only that it seems to be igniting while the valve is still partially open.
#9
Well jsmz, what could that mean the problem is?
I just checked and I have no spark?
My uncle said that to him it seems like it could be the ignition control module, what do you guys think. I want a little more input b4 i spend $75 on something that I dont need. Thanks
I just checked and I have no spark?
My uncle said that to him it seems like it could be the ignition control module, what do you guys think. I want a little more input b4 i spend $75 on something that I dont need. Thanks
Last edited by swartlkk; 01-07-2010 at 03:47 PM. Reason: Combining Consecutive Posts - Please use the EDIT function to add additional inforamtion to your post if another member has yet to reply. Consecutive Posting is prohibited by the rules of the forum.
#10
Most autoparts stores can test the ICM and coil. Once you find one that can, make sure they test them repeatedly (at least 10 times) to get the components hot.