blazer overheating and loss of power
#11
07-19-2011, 04:59 AM
A bad clutch fan plus a bad radiator cap will cause the loss of coolant and overheating. If it has overheated repeatedly or severely, you may have blown a head gasket. You wont neccessarily have coolant coming out the exhaust like you might imagine.
Start gathering information. You need to do a compression test and examine the spark plugs. Check the fuel pressure also. Does it have a CEL?
How many miles on the truck? How long have you had it? Has it run perfect until this happened ect? Please paint a picture for us, the more info you provide the easier it will be to help.
Start gathering information. You need to do a compression test and examine the spark plugs. Check the fuel pressure also. Does it have a CEL?
How many miles on the truck? How long have you had it? Has it run perfect until this happened ect? Please paint a picture for us, the more info you provide the easier it will be to help.
#12
07-21-2011, 11:05 AM
what do you mean by a cel? i did a fuel pressure chack and it at 60psi, 95000 miles on it. i bought from a neighbor that bought new so i've had it for 7 months now, it has new plugs, and wires, there is no water or coolant in the oil, but i'm also running the e3 plugs, to help on fuel econemy. i dont know how to do a compression test what tool do i need and how does it work.
#13
07-21-2011, 11:12 AM
CEL == Check Engine Light
I'm not sold on those e3 plugs being any better than stock. In fact, many of the aftermarket plugs available that tout better performance don't really do anything measurable.
What brand of cap & rotor did you install. More than a few members have installed a cheap aftermarket cap/rotor set to rule them out of the equation only to find that they had the same problem the used set had.
As far as a compression test goes, you need a compression tester. It will screw into the head in place of the spark plug. The engine is then rotated over using the starter. It's best to have all of the plugs out of the engine for this and pull the fuel pump relay.
I'm not sold on those e3 plugs being any better than stock. In fact, many of the aftermarket plugs available that tout better performance don't really do anything measurable.
What brand of cap & rotor did you install. More than a few members have installed a cheap aftermarket cap/rotor set to rule them out of the equation only to find that they had the same problem the used set had.
As far as a compression test goes, you need a compression tester. It will screw into the head in place of the spark plug. The engine is then rotated over using the starter. It's best to have all of the plugs out of the engine for this and pull the fuel pump relay.
#14
07-22-2011, 02:27 AM
CEL == Check Engine Light
I'm not sold on those e3 plugs being any better than stock. In fact, many of the aftermarket plugs available that tout better performance don't realily do anything measurable.
What brand of cap & rotor did you install. More than a few members have installed a cheap aftermarket cap/rotor set to rule them out of the equation only to find that they had the same problem the used set had.
As far as a compression test goes, you need a compression tester. It will screw into the head in place of the spark plug. The engine is then rotated over using the starter. It's best to have all of the plugs out of the engine for this and pull the fuel pump relay.
I'm not sold on those e3 plugs being any better than stock. In fact, many of the aftermarket plugs available that tout better performance don't realily do anything measurable.
What brand of cap & rotor did you install. More than a few members have installed a cheap aftermarket cap/rotor set to rule them out of the equation only to find that they had the same problem the used set had.
As far as a compression test goes, you need a compression tester. It will screw into the head in place of the spark plug. The engine is then rotated over using the starter. It's best to have all of the plugs out of the engine for this and pull the fuel pump relay.
The Cel is not on it idles fine almost perfect, but when I give it gas slowly it will go up to 2000rpms then boggs down, and almost dies till I let up off the gas then it will idle fine, as I said before I replace cap and rotor with a factory replacement, plugs wires, mass air flow sensor, thermostat, water pump, and radiator, I also cut the cat off still same problem
#15
09-11-2011, 08:34 AM
fixed?
The Cel is not on it idles fine almost perfect, but when I give it gas slowly it will go up to 2000rpms then boggs down, and almost dies till I let up off the gas then it will idle fine, as I said before I replace cap and rotor with a factory replacement, plugs wires, mass air flow sensor, thermostat, water pump, and radiator, I also cut the cat off still same problem
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