Blazer stalling :(
#21
About four years ago I replaced the pump in my '94 Jimmy with an Airtex. When that truck was wrecked I took the pump out and put it in my '94 Blazer. It's still running in that truck now that my buddy owns it. That's four years. Apparently it's the only non-OEM pump that's still running after that long. I would advise replacement with AC Delco or Delphi only.
#22
If you had a problem with the injector or spider set it would have a skip and some black smoke. Stalling is the fuel pump as you have stated when it dropped to 40psi is when it happened. I'm assuming of course you put a fuel filter on it. It's not that big of a deal once you commit to it! Replacing everything else will not change the fact that the pump is weak. Let us know how it goes! Good luck!
#23
blazer shutting off
Hi, I need help!!! I have a 1998 chevy blazer ls with 120k miles. The truck recently threw some codes and I replaced the sensors and recharged my ac. After driving it for a while the truck began to stall. It first happened on me five min into driving I thought maybe low on gas so filled the tank seemed to help. Now the truck is stalling when it gets to operating temp even if I hold the accelerator n brake pedal( initially stalling when at stop sign or red light.) I have replaced the iac, icm, tps, ignition coil, fuel filter, Maf, cleaned throttle body ever valve PVC valve and map sensors I've put about 600 and it still stalls. Now it's lunging forward like if it wasn't getting air n when u step on the gas it feels like the choke is on and Boggs. If someone can help me !!
****Its the CM that is mounted on the heat sink right at the top passenger side of the engine.
Buy a new one($74), and buy the silver heat paste at radio shack ($14).
take the whole assamble ( heat sink and CM mod) off the braket its mounted to because this is the cause of the problem. The bracket is mount to the engin and IT conducting heat back up from the engine causes all the problems.
After replacing the CM and applying the new heat paste, tye wrap the entire thing on the cables coming from the gas peddle to the top of the engine that are right in front of it , in such a manner that the air flow from the radiator will run down the length of the heat sink fins.
Simply tye wrapping will work fine and there is just enough length on the wires to the CM to allow it to reach.
This WILL finally solve this vexing problem. Simply put it is a design fault.
The CM is heat sensitive and is mounted to a heat sink. the problem is the bracket that ITS mounted to is hotter than hades and conducts the heat back into the CM via the heat sink.....crazy but do what I suggest and THAT problem is fixed...
#24
i was finally able to get out to the truck today. i did the whole icm thing suggested it did help the blazer run longer but still shuts off. i hooked up my new fuel pressure gauge n the pressure was low when idling i believe 50 psi. when it would shut off the fuel pressure dropped to about 40 psi. i also checked the volume of gas coming from the pump while car was idling and it was about 8oz after 15 sec. i dnt think thats enough gas some one correct me if im wrong. so i think i will conclude a bad fuel pump going to order a delphin tonight .
#25
In post #5 you determined that the problem is, (without a doubt) in the fuel delivery system. If you want to find out what the problem is, the next step is modify the fuel pressure tester so it connects directly to the fuel filter outlet. All fuel pressure and flow must end at the tester. On 1998 and newer, in the underhood fuse panel there is a vacant terminal next to the fuel pump relay. This is the "fuel pump prime terminal" and goes directly to the fuel pump. Connect a jumper wire from battery positive to the terminal. After the fuel pressure stabilizes, it must be 73psi to 108psi. Then remove the jumper wire and the fuel pressure must remain above 55psi for at least 10 minutes. If it fails either or both parts of the test, and there are no external fuel leaks between the tank and the tester, the fuel pump must be replaced.
FYI: All fuel pressure and leakdown tests are done with the engine OFF. Regulated fuel pressure, (at the service port next to the distributor), must be 60psi to 66psi while the pump is activated, (using the jumper wire method). Pressure must remain above 55psi for at least 10 minutes after you remove the jumper.
FYI: All fuel pressure and leakdown tests are done with the engine OFF. Regulated fuel pressure, (at the service port next to the distributor), must be 60psi to 66psi while the pump is activated, (using the jumper wire method). Pressure must remain above 55psi for at least 10 minutes after you remove the jumper.
Last edited by Captain Hook; 06-30-2013 at 10:15 PM.
#26
So I was finally able to get out to the blazer today. I did the leak down test directly to fuel pump in it fail right after the pump was stopped the pressure went straight to zero so now I removed it n I am going to order a new one I have a steel tank btw