By both, I mean the dash mounted amber ABS light and the red brake light which showed a '!' and a 'P'. This is only the second time these two lights have come on. The first time was also temporary and was due to me hitting a steep inclined driveway too hard. I didn't think I had actually hit the pavement, but just had a strong jolt through the front tires and suspension. My Blazer is a 2003 two door with 4WD. The first light went out in a short while. I haven't read the codes and don't have an ABS code reader,. Just a simple code reader. Any ideas on checking this ?

 

Here's an answer to my same question but it is old from 2012-2013 era on a 2nd Gen. First someone says just keep the ABS sensors on each wheel. That would be simple to do. Apparently too simple. Others say it will take replacing the ABS control unit with a new or reman. unit. This requires a careful bleeding of the EBCM. This is a tricky job and may require special equipment and skills....... as in ABS level scanners.

ABS and Brake light comes on and off at same time

 

replace the ABS unit with a known good one (especially if yours is the silver Kelsey Hayes unit) and you'll be good to go-no bleeding...others on this site have soldered spots inside but I have never had any luck doing out this way/finding the bad spot..Some have even offered others, on this site...to repair theirs for a nominal fee....not sure how's you'd find this info but....good luck

 

Thanks for the reply. Nothing is ever simple and straight forward.
Quote perumotors1369: ;if yours is the silver Kelsey Hayes unit) and you'll be good to go-no bleeding...others on this site have soldered spots inside but I have never had any luck doing out this way/finding the bad spot....
OP asks what is 'go-no go bleeding'? Is it a regular brake bleeding without having to use the ABS specific procedure with an special ABS scanner ?
About the re solder the bad solders in the ABS unit----I was the one who just did the windshield wiper motor control PCB with a problem with the cold solder joints. I couldn't find any obvious indication of cold/broken solder joints and just replaced the original PCB with a new one from Cardone. It solved the problem for about $29.xx.