I just did a rear brake pad replacement on my 03 LS 4 Door 4x4 Blazer. While I was C-clamping the caliper piston on the passenger side, a little brake fluid came out from around the piston. It does NOT appear to be leaking fluid after reinstallment and the brakes feel great. SSSOOOOOO much better than before the pad change.


Do I have a concern here? Are these calipers known for leaking around the pistons? Should I replace that caliper?


Thanks for any help here, fellow Blazer guys!

 

You prolly pushed the piston back a little cocked or you went across a part of travel that hasnt been used in some time. Just keep your good eye on it.

 

My rear caliper did the same thing. I replaced it as part of my brake job. I didn't want to chance it leaking on my new pads.
I'll use a questionable part if it failing will cost me some miles per gallon. But never with brakes. I have respect for LeWhite's knowledge, experience, and his generosity with sharing his expertise. I'm also a fan of his work.
That caliper stopped your blazer for 12 years. $40 and a little time to bleed the line is cheap peace of mind knowing your brakes are good compared to worrying about that caliper. Plus it allows you to spend some quality time with a friend saying "push" and "let off" while you open and close the bleeder.

 

Thanks Nuts but I recant. To the OP; just replace the caliper. Then you'll be done with it!

 

I agree, calipers, hardware & brackets on the rear of these things are good for the life of the pads. No sense taking a chance when it comes to brakes. Just need to gravity bleed them, DON'T pump the pedal.

 

I did my passenger side caliper when I did my rear pads because it was ceased up. I gravity bled it and then bled the other side just for good measure and everything was fine. I assume they go bad so frequently because they are aluminum.

 

My buddy, also the mechanic I go to when I can't do my own, shares knowledge of ALL sorts with me when something comes up on my Chevy. He said he's replaced a thousand of these and gave me a few quick pointers. I'm not at all afraid of the job and will replace my caliper soon, although I'm not losing any brake fluid at this time.


I have a "dumb" question regarding gravity vs. pump bleeding. Why is pump bleeding wrong to do on our Blazers? And please explain gravity bleeding. I've never heard that term.


Again, thanks a million for any help!

 

And, also, what's a good caliper for my Blazer? How are the Wearevers from Advance Auto? Should I replace both rear calipers or just the one that bled a little fluid while I was changing my rear pads?

 

Pumping the brake pedal creates turbulence in the master cylinder which can cause air to migrate into the solenoids and valves in the ABS unit. If or when that happens, the only way to get it out is using a scan tool capable of performing the "automated bleed" function. The automated bleed individually operates the solenoids and pushes the air into the steel lines. Then the system needs to be manually, or gravity bled to expel the air out of the bleeders at the calipers, quite a time consuming and expensive process, and can be totally avoided very easily.


If /when the hydraulic system needs to be bled, if done properly, gravity bleeding will not allow air into the valves and solenoids. The master cylinder must not be allowed to run dry during the entire gravity bleed process. When replacing a caliper, install the new one, the rotor, and the pads, before removing the line from the old caliper. Then swap the line from the old caliper to the new one as quickly as possible to keep fluid loss and air entry to a minimum. Remove the master cylinder cover, top the fluid level off, and open the bleeder. When the fluid comes out clear, (no bubbles) close the bleeder. This usually takes 5-15 minutes, during which time, do not let the master cylinder run dry. With the bleeder closed, slowly push & release the brake pedal, (extending the caliper piston) until the pedal is firm, usually takes 4 or 5 strokes. Do not allow the pedal to go to the floor. Have an assistant hold pressure on the pedal. Don't need to "stand" on it, just apply pressure, and don't pump it. With pressure applied, quickly open and close the bleeder. Do not allow the brake pedal to go to the floor on this step either. Repeat until no bubbles appear. Best to do this procedure one wheel at a time until it is completely bled out, and the pedal is firm, not spongy.


As for replacing rear calipers: These rear brake systems are great, if they are maintained properly. When the pads need replacement, so do the calipers, rotors, guide pins, and hardware. If you cut corners on these systems, you will have problems, guaranteed. Most remanufacturers include the bracket, guide pins, and hardware, at a very reasonable cost. Bolt 'em on, bleed 'em, and forget about them.

 

you can get complete caliper with bracket and all hardware, basically everything except the pads for $37.09 at Advance with a coupon code. This is of course after the core return.