2002 4dr 4wd Blazer, 87000 miles: rear pads are at the wear indicator so just going to all all the pads. Measured front rotor....27.5mm....minimun is 27mm....so will be replacing all the rotors. Also pulling off all the calipers for a really good cleaning with seal / boot replacement. Hopefully the pistons will clean-up okay...do see rust on them...but if not pitted I plan on cleaning and re-using. And of course, completely bleed the old dirty brake fluid out.

Will also be replacing the left front half-shaft as the CV joint has lost all of its grease.
Going to try to get the half-shaft through the spindle instead of separating the lower ball joint....this should be interesting.

So any lessons learned on any of these repairs? I have done several calipers over the years, so not expecting any problems, but thought I would ask.

 

I don't believe the shaft fits through the spindle

 

here is a how to on that...havent tried it myself yet...no need (knock on wood)

https://blazerforum.com/forum/tech-a...-method-41863/

 

Yep....that is what I read and got me to try this method. Although taking the four bearing bolts out may prove to be more difficlut that separating the lower ball joint....have to see. I am curious to see if the CV joint will pass through the spindle.

I will post some pictures.

 

Don't let the master cylinder run dry. If it does, you'll need a bi-directional scan tool capable of accessing and initiating the ABS automated bleed.

 

I did this job on my 99 and if you replace the shaft the seal is gonna leak at the front axle. The drivers side seal is real easy if you buy the cover plate with the seal pressed in. It is very difficult to remove the passengers seal. Most seal pullers break so buy a few. You can get the CV joint out by removing the bearing and upper ball joint. Put a jack under the lower A-arm to control the torsion bar spring force. Also the CV joint on the passengers side is short and requires a unique joint with additional angle. You wont get it at NAPA. If I was to do it again I would rebuild the passenger joint. The one I got from NAPA locks up if the car is jacked up until the wheel just leaves the ground. The boot on the replacement CV joint also rubbed the shock - found some smaller diameter Monroes. Actually I wouldnt relpace that CV joint unless its making noise. I made that mistake and had to do it twice since it was leaking at the front differential case. Dont fix it if it aint broke. You will have lots of other things to fix. The car is a can of worms.

 

replacing the shaft will not cause the seal to leak. i have replaced a few shafts on mine and have yet to have a seal leak afterwards. The cv shafts are close to the same length on each side just with a different ends that go into the diff. Napa does have them as i have gotten a few from them and they work fine with no problems. Do you have your tbars cranked? That would be the only reason i could think of as to why they bind when jacked up. Mine do the same thing due to cranking the tbars 2-2.5in

 

Car is stock height. Just telling my experience.

 

Wanted to know if anyone had any instructions for replacing the front rotors and shocks on a 1999 Chevy Blazer 4x4? Is there a trick to getting the old rotors off? Also about getting the new front shocks back on? Thanks

 

for the rotors... bfh is your friend...for the shocks just unbolt and pry out, insert new and bolt together