Need some assistance with replacing my front rotors and pads on my 98 Blazer 4x4. I've watched my dad replace them twice in the past but can never remember which bolts to remove to get the caliper off. Anyone have any advise on this issue? I believe there are 4 bolts on the caliper, but what they go to I have no clue.

Thanks,

Blazin 4x4

 

You are correct. There are 4 bolts. Two of the bolts hold the caliper to the caliper bracket, and two of the botls hold the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle. It is best to take the caliper off first. Then take the caliper bracket off. Once the caliper bracket is off, the rotors will come off.

If the rotors are being stubborn, put your lug nuts back on the studs. Use a hammer and pound between the lug nuts. Your trying to break a rust bond between the back of the rotor and the hub face. I like to use a chemical called PB Blaster, it does a great job of freeing rusted stuff. Spray it into the lug bolt holes in teh rotor. Spin and spray. The reason you put the lug nuts on the studs is in case you hit them you won't flaten out the threads on the studs. Leave the lug nuts so none of the threaded end sticks past them, where you can hit it. If you never miss with a hammer then you can leave the lug nuts off, just don't hit the studs. If you flatten out the threads you have to replace the stud. Which isn't hard, but it will require a trip to the autoparts store.

To replace a stud- Pound it in, it'll take a few good whacks. It is pressed into the hub from the backside. Should be able to spin the hub so there is space to get the old stud out and push a new one in. Once the new stud is in place, use 2 large thick washers and a lug nut to draw it into place. Put the two washers on then the lug nut. Crank on it until you feel it seat in the back. Remember to torque the lug nuts to 100 pounds when you put the tire back on. This will make sure the lug nut and stud are seated propberly.

When you change the rotors spray them claen with brake cleaner. The new rotors come with a protective oil coating that must be removed. You could always wash them in your kitchen sick with Dawn dish washing detergent. Dawn gets the grease out. I prefer to buy a couple cans of brake cleaner, its only a couple of bucks per can. I clean the rotors before I install them. Put on the caliper bracket to hold them in place, and after I get the brake caliper (with new pads) bolted back in place I spray the rotors agian to remove any grease I may have gotten on them while putting on the calipers. Spin and spray. Grease on the pads or rotor will quickly glaze either or both and then your are looking at more work to get that iritating squell to go away.

When you start on the caliper use a old toothbrush to clean all the brake dust off of them. Notice where the caliper slides on the caliper bracket, you will want to put brake grease there. You also want brake grease on the back of the brake pads, not the pad side, but rather the side that is next to the caliper. This will prevent the pads from chattering and squelling as well. Make sure your caliper pins slide easily. Regrease them, do not get any dirt in there. The quickest way to ruin a caliper is to get dirt on the pins. If the pins freeze up your brakes will not work properly, and this gets to be a costly repair (new rotor, brake caliper, brake line, and brake pads). Do not polish or clean the pins with anything other then your hand and a rag. There is a protective coating on the pins, and once that coating is gone they will rust in place.

Follow the directions in the Chilton/Haynes repair manual. I posted up some tips they usually leave out. Post up if you have any questions. If I am online you can always IM me.