Hello, My a/c gave out a while back and i tried looking for a leak and no luck. I had also recharged the a/c sytem and about 2 days later the a/c hose broke... i decided to replace the a/c compressor, filter, accumilator, orfice tube and hoses and went to a friends shop to get it recharged (he used that machine to take out the moisture or whatever) and the a/c isn't blowing cold... the components were purchased brand new and since the a/c compressor didn't come with a high cut off switch i purchased one for it just so it can be brand new. The friend asked if the orfice tube was installed backwords, but my brother who is the one that installed everything said that he put it on just like it was on the other old broken ones. When the a/c is on max i can barley feel a fresh air, but not good enough too have the windows closed with 104 degrees. Anyone have any idea on what could've been the problem? thanks

 

There could be a number of things wrong. If the system pressure is holding properly, the compressor is running as it should, and the line going into the firewall gets cold & sweats, then the A/C system is likely working as it should and the problem may be in the dash. The blend door actuators on these trucks are a known failure point. It controls the flow of air over the heater core.

 

I'll have to have that checked out, is their any signs i should look for? How can i tell if they are bad? thanks

 

Anyone else have an ideas before i have someone inspect this problem? thanks

 

Signs what is bad? The blend door actuator (singular - as in there's only one in your truck)? You can search for "blend+door+actuator" and read all about it! When the blend door actuator goes bad, it will not properly control the duct outlet temperature. To a certain extent, you can cycle the temperature **** on the HVAC control panel to full hot or full cold, waiting between extremes for a noticeable change in outlet temperature.

If you are asking how to check on the other things, observation my friend. Look at it. When you turn your hvac controls to full cold with the A/C on, does the compressor come on and stay on? If so, does the line going into the firewall under the hood get cold & sweat (form little beads of water on its exterior)?

If the compressor does not come on or engages and then immediately disengages, then you have other problems. Low charge as a result of a leak in the system or potentially a bad switch (low pressure cutoff or high pressure cutoff). A lot of this has been explained, in detail, in other threads on the forum.

Suffice to say, if you don't know quite a bit about the A/C system, how it works, and what each part of the system does, you probably should leave the diagnosis & repair to someone that does.

 

If the blend door is broken you can switch from defrost to floor and feel the air c oming out of the right places. I would temp jump out the heater core to rule hot mixing with cold. The oriface tube could of plugged up first time you fired it up. When the hose broke it exposes the oil to mosture and it can turn to sludge. I would of blown out the condenser and evap coils with nitrogen before replacing everything.

Refrigeration geek Mike

 

Bluntly put, if the compressor cycle is on more than 30 seconds and the vapor line into the compressor is refrigerator cold.. probably sweating unless you're in the desert, then the AC part is fine.
If above, then
Blend door

 

ok, so i talked to my friend who recharged the a/c system and he said that my compressor does stay on . The high pressure is 210 and low pressure is 40 and he stated that the reciever dryer doesn't get cold at all.

 

?? sorta does not compute.
How about checking the tube from the condenser coil to the firewall. Somewhere in there, it should go from warmer than air to cold. That's where the orifice is. Should be cold going into the firewall. If it is, I'm thinking the charge is still low.
If it's got ice on it, you likely have a clogged orifice. Paradoxically if the orifice is partially clogged the line right after it gets real cold but there's not enough refrigerant passing through to cool the evap sufficiently. If the low side pressure is constant at 40, though, it may be there is contamination.. such a s the system was not evacuated sufficiently

And there is no receiver/dryer in your car.. it's an accumulator. It does receive and it does dry but it's on opposite side of compressor as a receiver dryer.

 

Does anyone happen to have a picture of how to properly install a orfice tube on this vehicle? my bro says that if he remembers correctly he put the orfice tube with the o ring looking thing facing in towards the evaperator.