my a/c in a 2000 blazer (s) has worked perfect for the year that i've owned it.
a month ago i woke up started blazer and only warm air came out the local repair shop said it would be $900 and they still were not sure that it would fix it completely they might have to do more.
they left what charge they put in it and it blew cool air for about a month after.
should i just recharge it myself again?
will it last as long if i do ?
dosent that estimate seem high for something that was working fine for a year?(seems like a leak would be cheap)

i know its going to leak out again but i dont have $900.

THANKS

 

My 2000 had a slow leak also. I was adding a can of freon about every six weeks. My leak turned out to be the 25 cent o-ring on my cycle switch. Changed it out, so far so good.

 

This type of system is very sensitive to the amount of refrigerant used. Too much is just as bad, if not worse, than too little. If the refrigerant level is off by as little as 2 ounces, (over or under charged) the system will not perform properly. The only way to know how much refrigerant is in the system is to drain, evacuate, and recharge it with the correct amount. There is no sight glass and there are too many variables involved to depend on pressure tests alone. Sounds to me like you need someone that knows how to diagnose & repair A/C rather than guess and charge you a fortune. If there's a leak, (size doesn't matter) it needs to be located and repaired. The compressor used on these vehicles is a Harrison HT6, which uses a split case design. Over time and miles they will develop leaks where the case halves fit together, (very common problem). A shot of UV dye and a black light will locate the leak every time, no matter where the leak is. It it ends up being the compressor, Sanden makes a direct fit bolt on replacement compressor, (model 4440) that is not a split case design, (much better compressor).

 

i just put the gauge on it and it was empty so i charged to the middle of the blue area on gauge where it said charged but no luck even with a charge its still blowing hot.

oh well i guess i have fork out the big bucks if i want to be cool.

thanks for all the info and ill check out the sanden

 

Does your compressor kick on when you charge it?

 

Where is the cycle switch located?

 

The clutch cycling switch is mounted on the side of the accumulator and has one electrical connector with two wires in it. When installing the new switch, do not use tools, hand tight only.

 

Does changing the o-ring then require evacuation of air/moisture and the (obviously) refilling with refrigerant?

I'm trying to balance the cost of a can or 2 of refrigerant every year versus an expensive professional repair.

 

There is a schrader valve in the fitting on the accumulator so the O ring and switch can be changed without draining the system.

If you're just randomly adding refrigerant, keep in mind that this type of system is very sensitive to the amount of refrigerant used. Too much is just as bad, if not worse, than too little. If the refrigerant level is off by as little as 2 ounces, (over or under charged) the system will not perform properly. There are too many variables involved to determine the level of charge by pressure tests alone. The only way to know how much refrigerant is in the system is to drain, evacuate, (very important step) and recharge it with the correct amount.

 

I read a little about this last night when i was messing with my AC. It worked at the end of last summer but now it doesnt. I read that if it doesnt have enough or too much refrigerant that the ac clutch wont run (which mine isnt running) So, i took the cycling switch off and jumped it and the clutch kicked on. That means that my compressors not shot right? I want to empty the system and start fresh which im completely able to do. Just want to make its the proper procedures to take. Thanks guys!