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Car takes long time to stop

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  #41  
Old 08-03-2010 | 11:38 PM
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UPDATE: The truck is stopping much better. I think the pads are still resetting to the new rotors. What was so funny is that I went to start and move the car earlier and the brake pedal went down until it was flush with the gas pedal when I went to shift out of park (lower than usual). I originally thought "Oh no. Brake line" . But I released the pedal again and it started acting normal (stops 1" higher). It sometimes did that in the past 2 months (since the master cylinder, calipers, rotors, pads were replaced) on initial startup. I was told the pedal is fine by a couple mechanics. I drove it 20 miles, even taking it on an empty rural interstate highway and pulling off to the side to test the brakes a couple times and they work alot better. Not OEM spec, but alot better than before. The pedal travel remains consistant. It stops about 1" above the gas pedal. I can stick the sole of my shoe under the brake pedal when it is applied when the gas pedal is at idle. No sinking pedal or warning lights. Thanks for all your help on this. I think this is it (for now at least) for the brake work unless you recommend I do something else.
 
  #42  
Old 08-04-2010 | 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ComputerNerdBD
UPDATE: The truck is stopping much better. I think the pads are still resetting to the new rotors. What was so funny is that I went to start and move the car earlier and the brake pedal went down until it was flush with the gas pedal when I went to shift out of park (lower than usual). I originally thought "Oh no. Brake line" . But I released the pedal again and it started acting normal (stops 1" higher). It sometimes did that in the past 2 months (since the master cylinder, calipers, rotors, pads were replaced) on initial startup. I was told the pedal is fine by a couple mechanics. I drove it 20 miles, even taking it on an empty rural interstate highway and pulling off to the side to test the brakes a couple times and they work alot better. Not OEM spec, but alot better than before. The pedal travel remains consistant. It stops about 1" above the gas pedal. I can stick the sole of my shoe under the brake pedal when it is applied when the gas pedal is at idle. No sinking pedal or warning lights. Thanks for all your help on this. I think this is it (for now at least) for the brake work unless you recommend I do something else.
Glad it is stopping much better for you, I am all out of ideas. We went thru almost everything, rotors, calipers, pads, brake hoses, master cylinder... only things left is the ABS block and vacuum booster. The booster is easy to test tho, pull the main vacuum hose off the booster and the brakes get hard, put it back on and the pedal goes soft again your booster is good, a failed booster will give you a hard pedal.
 
  #43  
Old 08-04-2010 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Nvidia78
Glad it is stopping much better for you, I am all out of ideas. We went thru almost everything, rotors, calipers, pads, brake hoses, master cylinder... only things left is the ABS block and vacuum booster. The booster is easy to test tho, pull the main vacuum hose off the booster and the brakes get hard, put it back on and the pedal goes soft again your booster is good, a failed booster will give you a hard pedal.
Ok Thanks. I had the ABS Block and Booster tested out by a mechanic and they were fine. The vacuum booster holds vacuum for several hours after the engine is turned off. No hard pedal unless the engine is off and I use up all the reserve. No other issues with it. I wish I could completely disable and bypass the ABS system before it gives me problems down the road.
 
  #44  
Old 08-04-2010 | 02:20 PM
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All this time and money could have been avoided by gettin quality ac delco the first time around. And i know people will say awwww there to exspensive. Well the time and money AND SAFETY you have put your self through is amazing, cuz if you would have bought quality the first time round i GUARENTEE none of this would have happened
 
  #45  
Old 08-04-2010 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by blazerboyz
All this time and money could have been avoided by gettin quality ac delco the first time around. And i know people will say awwww there to exspensive. Well the time and money AND SAFETY you have put your self through is amazing, cuz if you would have bought quality the first time round i GUARENTEE none of this would have happened
I agree with you 100%, but I didn't have a say in which brand parts the shops used. When I can't get AC Delco (or if the parts were significantly more expensive than similar quality brands), I try to get another well known high quality brand (Napa or similar other brands. NO store brands.), without spending too much money. Believe it or not, my mother does not let me buy the parts and bring them to the shops. I stopped listening to her and brought the rotors to the shop yesterday. She was pissed originally, but she felt really stupid once I called her and said that the new rotors work perfectly with no issues and that the shop had no problem with it. The shop who did all the work last year: I am no longer doing business with it. The pads and rotors they used were bad after only a year and I took it to them twice for groaning noise coming from the rear left wheel during slow turns. It was the caliper rubbing after they replaced the pads and rotor. I took it to 2 other mechanics and they said nothing was wrong with the brakes. One of them said my rear axle was probably going bad (not the case) and another one said the noise was probably in my head (THAT pissed me off). 8 months after the original shop did the work, my brakes failed on the Garden State Parkway in NJ TWICE in one weekend. The second one happened after the shop where the car was towed to replaced the master cylinder by mistake (I think they were intentionally dishonest). 4 days later (after I got it home I parked it pending another brake flush and full inspection) the caliper seized completely and it was metal on metal with the pad backing plate and the rotor when I was moving it within my driveway. I pulled the back wheels and found the left one completely destroyed and the right one with still plenty of material left. The shop who replaced it said that caliper boiled my brake fluid and cause the brakes to fail when it got hot from higher speeds.
 
  #46  
Old 08-04-2010 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by blazerboyz
All this time and money could have been avoided by gettin quality ac delco the first time around. And i know people will say awwww there to exspensive. Well the time and money AND SAFETY you have put your self through is amazing, cuz if you would have bought quality the first time round i GUARENTEE none of this would have happened
For tune up parts I agree on quality AC Delco as well as fuel pumps and other things blazers are sensitive on like spark plugs but in no way have I ever had a problem using Napa parts on my brakes or other vehicles brakes, Napa has good quality brake components as well as some other good products... and Ac Delco are cheapening there components as well so its basically a toss up on anything you buy any more, the only things they keep there quality goin on is there spark plugs and fuel pumps, heck there even cheapening there oil filters...
 
  #47  
Old 08-04-2010 | 07:48 PM
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Im just sayin that i have been turnin wrench's for over 10 years (for chevy) an have never had brand new calipers lock up in one week. Yes i agree napa makes some good parts........but........ when it comes to brakes something between saving your life or not i will stick with delco......i dont mean to sound like a dick its just speakin from exsperiance, i know the road you guys have been down
 
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