ok guys i went through the diagnostics for finding my problem on this web site. and it all leads to me having to replace my VCM/PCM. It kept the same 10.1volts while grounding one prong off and while connected together with a wire, (just followed the diagnostic procedure) and it lead me to 14 which said replace VCM
- in all i was getting 10.1 volts with vehicle on eng. off and with engine on no fluxuation with volts with anything.... so with common sense: sort of make sence with no breaks in the wires going to the PCM and it sending that high of voltage out it has to be bad.... any thoughts or suggestions???? just want to make sure before dishing out 100 bucks...

and if so the new PCM will be programmed to my VIN. so will i be able to just plug and go without problems??? ( no other relearn procedures with the new install) the seller is on Ebay
thanks to those who have held on for this long, reading my problems. i hope i can fix this and be done and in return help all those who are in the same postion

 

You'll more than likely need somebody with a Tech II scan tool, or an EFI Live performance setup so you can do a CASE re-learn for the cam/crank position sensors. The new computer will need to know the correlation between the crank & the sensor in order to run correctly.

Not sure if you can change the VIN or not ... maybe with a Tech II? That's out of my area of expertise. Keep us posted - I'm learning from this one as well.

 

The PCM i plan on buying will be programmed to my VIN number so i can just plug and go.... ... but ive read there is a possibility i will have to do this CASE relearn hope i dont bc i dont want to shell out the money for a mechanic to do lol

 

Yeah, I hear that. Only one way to find out - slap it in there & see if she runs. If it needs one you'll get the code (CEL on).

 

well put in the new one and same code it did get rid of my ABS light lol but test the voltage at the prongs of the connector and still the same 10.1 reading???? so im confused if the ECM sends that voltage to the sensor and i replaced it with a new one shouldnt that have fixed it or is there a reason that many volts is being sent from the ECM? like a ground??
im out of ideas and plan to send back the new ECM bc there is nothing wrong with my ECM again thanks guys for the help and advice

 

now the way i test the voltage was as so:
with car on engine off both leads where put into both prongs got a reading of around 10 volts
ok
next step was to ground off one prong (which it did not say specificly which prong) so i put hot lead into hot prong and put a wire into ground prong and grounded off onto a screw and grounded the other lead to another part of the body and still go 10+ reading
ok
then bridge them together with a wire tested near the prongs on the wire got not reading



it says to use a scan tool which i dont have i just have a multitool
but ive also put in a new PCM and still get the high voltage with car on engine off so im lost

 

Have you tested the wiring for shorts or just replaced the two wires back to the PCM?

 

no sir i havent replaced the wires just tested for voltage and shorts
and have the same 10.2 volts every time with car on engine off

when i put hot lead on hot prong and ground off other lead and prong too two seperate grounds still get 10 + volts

when i put hot lead to hot prong and ground lead to ground prong 10+ volts

and no volt reading when i bridge them put testing leads right next to rongs on the wires though

just retested tonight to make sure

 

The sensor is just a variable resistor. The PCM sends a voltage to the sensor and senses the return to the PCM. I have never had a reason to test the input/output from the ECT sensor before, but the black wire from the sensor leads back to the PCM and is called the 5V return...

Check out THIS POST for the diagrams for your truck.

 

Oh I thought the PCM sent a certain voltage to the sensor thus being the 5volts so the actually voltage sent doesn't matter it's what's sent back to the PCM during the warm up period that matters so I have no breaks in my wires and everything looks good could it be the durlast brand sensor I put in