a couple of different questions for you guys
I have no idea what the previous owner did to this but I'll try to explain what I see without use of pictures. There are 4 wires hooked up to a 4 pin connector. They are all the same size and they are white brown yellow and green. These wires are run through those twist on wire splice things before they go through the 4 pin connector. Next are the blue and red thicker wires just cut and hanging there and then light blue and light green thinner wires hanging cut next to the aforementioned ones. All of these are coming out of the same electrical taped harness. What I'd like to do is clean the wiring harness up, makes sure it works, and then hook up a lighting set up to plug into that, and only engage when the vehicle is put in reverse. The vehicle BTW is a 1999 s10 blazer Lt 4x4 four door.
Next question is how hard is it to replace rocker panels on your own? Plug and play with a few screws or is it a task better handled with a cutting torch? I've been trying to hunt for replacements, but even the dealership says they don't make them anymore but the auto body repair guy could fix them for $45/hr. So not impressed, any suggestions are welcomed. The current one's aren't rusted through just surface rust and missing paint. I don't dare call the big name place down the street for a grinding repainting and a gloss... I don't have the money or tools or a covered space to make the paint dry smooth either. Thanks for your help.
Next question is how hard is it to replace rocker panels on your own? Plug and play with a few screws or is it a task better handled with a cutting torch? I've been trying to hunt for replacements, but even the dealership says they don't make them anymore but the auto body repair guy could fix them for $45/hr. So not impressed, any suggestions are welcomed. The current one's aren't rusted through just surface rust and missing paint. I don't dare call the big name place down the street for a grinding repainting and a gloss... I don't have the money or tools or a covered space to make the paint dry smooth either. Thanks for your help.
I'm confused.
Where are these wires? Under the hood? At the back? Somewhere else? Where do they go? What component are they plugged into? If they are just cut and hanging there, not powering anything, why don't you just remove them?
What kind of "lighting set" are you talking about? You want extra reverse lights, or what?
Some pictures would really help us out.
Where are these wires? Under the hood? At the back? Somewhere else? Where do they go? What component are they plugged into? If they are just cut and hanging there, not powering anything, why don't you just remove them?
What kind of "lighting set" are you talking about? You want extra reverse lights, or what?
Some pictures would really help us out.
Photo bucket isn't letting me post pictures through the img link like it used to. They are located at the back of the truck near the trailer hitch. The idea is to make an extra reverse light that is mounted on the receiver itself. The mount I'm all set with but the wiring is what I am concerned with the most. I will gladly email the pictures to who ever would like them.
Oh, It's the plug for the trailer lights? Most trailers (at least the ones I've pulled) don't have reverse lights. Just brake and turn signals, so I doubt any of those would give you what you wanted. Why not just find the power wire for the actual reverse lights, and parallel it in with one of them? Assuming the light you want to put back there doesn't pull too much current for the existing wire. Since the reverse lights aren't on for more than a few seconds, I wouldn't think it would be a problem.
Do you or anybody else have any ideas as to how a single 55w bulb or a 35w would work? I was thinking one of these type lights Northern Industrial Tools 12 Volt Halogen Tractor Implement Light - Clear, Round, 4 3/4in., 35 Watts | Halogen Automotive Work Lights| Northern Tool + Equipment so in that case I would have to splice into the reverse wire for the existng reverse lights with a double butt style connector, and find a ground on the frame? And obviously tidy up the wires afterwards? Also any suggestions on what gauge wire would work? Thanks for the help RED!!
The rocker panel job is fairly strait forward,although I've never done one of these. Is your unit a 4 door? I was told that they are a little more involved. I have also read that it is difficult to find 4 door rockers,espescially if you need to tackle the rear doors as well,but as they are the same as later 4 door pickups(or so it seems)why this is:is a mystery. My first Jimmy was from Maine and while the rockers were bad,I had to retire the unit due to severe rear frame rust: the rearmost 15"-18" of the frame on both sides were cheese and I no longer trusted it in traffic(fear of being rear ended) I advise you thoroughly inspect your unit for other rust issues before putting too much into it. And yes I know Maine has an annual inspection program,but too many northern New England shops will not even consider rust an issue,but God forbid if you have a CEL!!! I'm from Coos county NH and have been through it! All the best!
That's y I switched where I live from new hampshire to York county Maine. One more town north and I am in Cumberland county where they do emissions like new Hampshire. I got tired of dropping $150 bucks every time I needed a new air pump. The rockers arent bad now, just paint missing and now covered in rubber under coat spray. The front end of the rear doors on the lower portion is another spot where the same issue is occurring. I'm sure the proper solution is a big name auto body shop two days without my truck and a big wad of cash but that's not in the cards especially because I made the bright decision to take college courses all year round this year. I've been underneath it every three months with about $100 dollars worth of under coat the rubberized stuff. The only places its starting to catch are the lower lip of the rear bumper, rockers and the lower rear doors. And typical surface rust on the lower exposed frame and exposed suspension parts. What confuses me is the rubber stuff works awesome on the underneath of the truck like rear cargo area and above muffler and exposed frame, but not on rockers and the like. I'm due for a sticker come August so I think I might need to find one of those sticker stations that check your lights and horn and then slap a sticker on it and say see you next year now leave before people know you went here. Its just that the blazer has been good to me for the last 4 years and I need to make it last another 3-4 years til school is done and I get a real job where I can make payments on a club cab. But I'm gonna cry when it comes that time for sure...
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