Here are a couple dumb questions about stuff I need to do before I go to college one week from this Friday.

1.How do I dump the refrigerant in the A/C system in preparation of putting new stuff in (High mileage R-134a with lubricant and other conditioning stuff)? Could I just put the refill hose on the low side and open the valve without a can attached and let it hiss out? Would that empty it? I think I put the wrong stuff in when I refilled it in the spring (plain R134a, no lubricant. Label near the A/C systems says "R134a w/Synthetic Oil"). I think it really needs oil because when I have the A/C on and when the compressor is actually operating, it feels like a real drag on the engine. When it clicks off, the car starts to accelerate as if I was towing a trailer and it came off (IDK a better analogy, even though I don't tow because I don't want to put my tranny at risk. I want it to last.)

2. What is the easiest way of replacing the door pins and bushings on the driver's door? It hangs down like 1/4-1/2 inch when it is open and the metal behind the pin on the B-pillar is already cracked (they aren't growing though, good sign).

3. (dumbest question yet) I might not be back home for a couple months to have it tested out here, but what is the best way of testing out my 4WD system to make sure it is working ok? The SERVICE 4WD light is burned out (easy fix???) and I have no way of knowing a problem is happening electronically unless it already "struck home". I haven't really used it for an extended period in a few months.

Thanks

ComputernerdBD

 

putting oil in the ac system will not take any drag off the engine or anything....make sure the compressor is fully charged, thats about it and releasing the freon into the air is a no no make sure you get it recovered by someone with a recovery machine, otherwise your eagle scout status will be denied

 

the pins and bushing are faily easy to do... you use a spring compressor remove the spring that makes the door stay open.. then you take the retainor clip off the old pins then you use a hammer to hit the pins out of the hinge..if they're hard to take out have some one hold the door up so the entire weight of the door isnt on that pin..and also so the door doesnt fall off when you take the old pins out.. take the old bushings out (if they didnt come out when you took out the old pins) put the new bushings in.. put the new pins in.. put the new retainor clips on the pins.. and then just put the spring back.. no alighnment of the door is nessesary.. its fairly simple.. just had to do it on my blazer about a month ago...

 

Ok thanks and with the A/C: I made an appointment to have all that done professionally.

 

Regarding the A/C, couldn't I just add the oil to the A/C system directly so I don't have to have it professionally evacuated and spend all the $$$ to do it? (Part number 310 at Autozone) They have separate small cans of it and the system is already charged and I have the pressure gauge to do it.

 

You can add oil but Its not neccessary since the system is full and should have enough oil in it

 

Being as your other questions have been answered, the best way to test if your 4X4 is working is to get in some slick mud with an observer looking on outside the truck. Tap/punch the skinny pedal to spin the tires (no need to be excessive here) and make sure one of the front tires spin. Do not count on both front tires spinning as you don't have an LSD or locker.

 

Thanks for all the replies on my questions. It really helped.

Regarding the A/C:

I checked it out. Due to my own stupidity, it was low on R-134a. I found it empty earlier this year (March), so I topped it up with 2.5 cans of R-134a and I thought that was enough (The air was cool out the vents with max cooling and I am willing to admit I didn't have the guts to add more than what was necessary to actually make it work because I didn't want A/C system parts to explode in my face. That is what happens with my way of life of always taking the precautions or being so careful.) What was happening was that the low side pressure was rising to about 50 PSI, the compressor would kick on for a few seconds, it would drop down to 20 PSI, compressor would kick out and the cycle would repeat. I added 17oz R-134a with 1 oz Sub Zero Synthetic Booster to the system. Not only do I now have colder air now (i was actually shivering in my seat with max cooling on), but when I command the A/C on, the compressor clicks in silently and it remains running while the A/C light is on. The compressor and the low side pressure no longer cycle. It just hovers at 30PSI. I found out that this is still not enough for the temperature, so before I go to college next week, I will bring my car to our friend who is a mechanic. This also solved my acceleration problems with the A/C on. I was able to do a kickdown before pulling onto the most dangerous highway in the area before and I was pinned to my seat trying to avoid a car. The car now felt like it was 1000 lbs. lighter or had a V8 in it with the A/C on compared to before.

Door Pin:

I got the replacement "HELP!" pins for the Jimmy. However, I don't have the spring compressor tool to remove the door spring and AutoZone did not have one. I will probably have it fixed when I bring it in for the A/C check.

4WD:

I am sure it is working fine. I took it out yesterday on the back lawn on soft ground. Got it stuck with it in 2WD. Put it in 4HI with it in neutral and brakes off to release the tension on the transfer case (sometimes it struggles to go into 4WD if I am stopped and the car is immobilized by either the brakes or if it is in park because of the added strain on the drivetrain.) and it pulled out. That is how it usually goes. It was not even making tight turns (if I turned the wheel like 180 degrees, it will bind up and stop moving when it is in 4HI or 4LO. and moving at a crawl. It doesn't do that in 2HI. Keeps moving.)
I got it stuck once spinning all 4 wheels in 4LO in soft ground and grass turned to mud, and I was concerned I damaged something because it was making weird noises while it was stuck. I eventually had the transfer case and rear diff fluid levels checked when I had a coolant flush to make sure all was ok even though I just had those changed. They said the transfer case fluid was starting to get dirty, but it was probably "residue from before the fluid change". Eventually had to use the spare retaining wall stones from my Eagle Scout Project placed in the 6" deep tracks behind the front wheels and the floor mats behind the rears to do a slow reverse in 4LO. It worked.



Thanks again for all the advice on those 3 topics.

 

You can order that spring compressor at harborfreight .com. Its only like 10$. Also, an autobody shop quoted me at 300$ for the pins and bushings.. I spent a total of 35$ to do it myself. And plus, its always handy to have a spring compressor on hand for other applications..