A couple things that are worrying me
#1
08-29-2011, 06:34 PM
A couple things that are worrying me
Ok so my Blazer has a few things going on that are bothering me. 98 Blazer 4 door 4x4 auto.
Had the P1870 trans shop installed transgo shift kit, no more light or slipping. However now it seems that the trans has a mind of its own. Most times it shifts fine but occasionaly after a long highway run or heating it up in traffic it has a hard 1-2 shift (not as hard as the P1870 shift but it holds the gear longer than it should given throttle pressure). Also it seems to want to ALWAYS have the TCC locked. I understand the transgo kit allows TCC apply in 2nd and 3rd gears but this thing now wants to shift into OD at 30mph, Basically what it does is hit 30 with very light throttle and it tries to OD bogs down to like 500 rpm for a second realizes OOPS and unlocks again. Sometimes it does this 3-4 times in a row before the computer seems to realize that it can't lock at 30mph.
Second thing (and i'm fearing for my intake gasket right now because i can't afford to replace it or have the tools to do so at the moment) every now and then i'll smell antifreeze burnoff (granted i did recently replace the radiator however that was about 1500 miles ago). I can't find ANY seepage anywhere, no steam out the vents (no smell in the cabin either). Can only smell it when hot and not much. Have noticed ZERO loss of coolant in over 1500 miles (been checking since the rad replacement. Any ideas?
PS i've washed the engine down several times thinking it was residual.
Had the P1870 trans shop installed transgo shift kit, no more light or slipping. However now it seems that the trans has a mind of its own. Most times it shifts fine but occasionaly after a long highway run or heating it up in traffic it has a hard 1-2 shift (not as hard as the P1870 shift but it holds the gear longer than it should given throttle pressure). Also it seems to want to ALWAYS have the TCC locked. I understand the transgo kit allows TCC apply in 2nd and 3rd gears but this thing now wants to shift into OD at 30mph, Basically what it does is hit 30 with very light throttle and it tries to OD bogs down to like 500 rpm for a second realizes OOPS and unlocks again. Sometimes it does this 3-4 times in a row before the computer seems to realize that it can't lock at 30mph.
Second thing (and i'm fearing for my intake gasket right now because i can't afford to replace it or have the tools to do so at the moment) every now and then i'll smell antifreeze burnoff (granted i did recently replace the radiator however that was about 1500 miles ago). I can't find ANY seepage anywhere, no steam out the vents (no smell in the cabin either). Can only smell it when hot and not much. Have noticed ZERO loss of coolant in over 1500 miles (been checking since the rad replacement. Any ideas?
PS i've washed the engine down several times thinking it was residual.
#2
08-29-2011, 08:12 PM
tranny cant help ya.
antifreeze smell...my intake was leaking in the "valley" between the intake and the vavle covers...was always just barely damp. but i found it with uv kit. guess i would recommend that, worth the piece of mind of knowing if you find nothing.
antifreeze smell...my intake was leaking in the "valley" between the intake and the vavle covers...was always just barely damp. but i found it with uv kit. guess i would recommend that, worth the piece of mind of knowing if you find nothing.
#4
08-29-2011, 09:40 PM
I have a Mr Shift - TransGo shift kit in mine & it shifts/holds 1st -2nd for a bit - depending on the springs they installed & amount of throttle & then BANG it shifts. That's OK for the bands etc, just don't drive it hard unless you want to or need to. But either way if it's the kit I have it'll handle it admirably.
As for the torque converter, if it's working right I don't "think" it should kick in under about 1500 rpm at least & depending on speed & load.
Right is right & wrong = make it right because I paid for it to be done so!
Like Kyle (swartlkk) said - send transgo an email & ask them, or go to the shop it was done at & ask them.
<edit> As for the coolant smell, you're only smelling that AFTER you get out of the truck? (no smell inside etc) I'd put some cardboard down & park the blazer over it at night. Morning comes you can see if you have any minor leaks that may be causing the 'smell'.
As for the torque converter, if it's working right I don't "think" it should kick in under about 1500 rpm at least & depending on speed & load.
Right is right & wrong = make it right because I paid for it to be done so!
Like Kyle (swartlkk) said - send transgo an email & ask them, or go to the shop it was done at & ask them.
<edit> As for the coolant smell, you're only smelling that AFTER you get out of the truck? (no smell inside etc) I'd put some cardboard down & park the blazer over it at night. Morning comes you can see if you have any minor leaks that may be causing the 'smell'.
Last edited by Rottidog; 08-29-2011 at 09:45 PM.
#5
08-30-2011, 06:11 AM
I have been all over that motor with a flashlight and haven't seen anything either. I've checked around the front back and sides of the intake, underneath, all the hoses, can't see a durn thing wet. With engine running and hood open the ONE time i got the smell while actually trying to LOL it seemed to be coming from everywhere and then nowhere. But i assume that it's because of the clutch fan that i smelled it. aargh freaking aggrivating.
Here's a question. Since the shop did it and i don't know if they dc'd the battery or not....but obviously they cleared the code. I'm wondering if dcing the battery for a while and forcing a complete relearn on the TCM would help. Since if they didn't dc it and just cleared the code it would still have previous shift memory? Or would it have fixed itself by now? I suppose it couldn't hurt.
Last edited by swartlkk; 08-30-2011 at 06:59 AM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the EDIT feature to add additional information to your post if another member yet to respond.
#6
08-30-2011, 07:01 AM
You could give it a try. It certainly won't hurt anything, but I believe that the TAP memory does not reset on a battery disconnect.
Here's a bit of information on the TAP (transmission adaptive pressure):
Here's a bit of information on the TAP (transmission adaptive pressure):
Transmission Adaptive Functions
The 4L60-E transmission utilizes a line pressure control system during upshifts to compensate for the normal wear of transmission components. By adjusting the line pressure, the PCM can maintain acceptable transmission shift times. This process is known as "adaptive learning" or "shift adapts" and is similar to the closed loop fuel control system used for the engine.
In order for the powertrain control module (PCM) to perform a "shift adapt," it must first identify if an upshift is acceptable to analyze. For example, upshifts that occur during cycling of the A/C compressor or under extreme throttle changes could cause the PCM to incorrectly adjust line pressure. When an upshift is initiated, a number of contingencies, such as throttle position, transmission temperature, and vehicle speed, are checked in order to determine if the actual shift time is valid to compare to a calibrated desired shift time. If all the contingencies are met during the entire shift, then the shift is considered valid and the adapt function may be utilized if necessary.
Once an adaptable shift is identified, the PCM compares the actual shift time to the desired shift time and calculates the difference between them. This difference is known as the shift error. The actual shift time is determined from the time that the PCM commands the shift to the start of the engine RPM drop initiated by the shift. If the actual shift time is longer than the calibrated desired shift time, a soft feel or slow engagement, then the PCM decreases current to the pressure control (PC) solenoid in order to increase line pressure for the next, same, upshift under identical conditions. If the actual shift time is shorter than the calibrated desired shift time, a firm engagement, then the PCM increases current to the PC solenoid in order to decrease line pressure for the next, same, upshift under identical conditions.
The purpose of the adapt function is to automatically compensate the shift quality for the various vehicle shift control systems. It is a continuous process that will help to maintain optimal shift quality throughout the life of the vehicle.
Clearing Transmission Adaptive Pressure (TAP)
Transmission adaptive pressure (TAP) information is displayed and may be reset using a scan tool.
The adapt function is a feature of the PCM that either adds or subtracts line pressure from a calibrated base line pressure in order to compensate for normal transmission wear. The TAP information is divided into 13 units, called cells. The cells are numbered 4 through 14. Each cell represents a given torque range. TAP cell 4 is the lowest adaptable torque range and TAP cell 14 is the highest adaptable torque range. It is normal for TAP cell values to display zero or negative numbers. This indicates that the PCM has adjusted line pressure at or below the calibrated base line pressure.
Updating TAP information is a learning function of the PCM designed to maintain acceptable shift times.
It is not recommended that TAP information be reset unless one of the following repairs has been made:
Resetting the TAP values using a scan tool will erase all learned values in all cells. As a result, the PCM will need to relearn TAP values. Transmission performance may be affected as new TAPs are learned. Learning can only take place when the PCM has determined that an acceptable shift has occurred. The PCM must also relearn TAP values if it is replaced.
The 4L60-E transmission utilizes a line pressure control system during upshifts to compensate for the normal wear of transmission components. By adjusting the line pressure, the PCM can maintain acceptable transmission shift times. This process is known as "adaptive learning" or "shift adapts" and is similar to the closed loop fuel control system used for the engine.
In order for the powertrain control module (PCM) to perform a "shift adapt," it must first identify if an upshift is acceptable to analyze. For example, upshifts that occur during cycling of the A/C compressor or under extreme throttle changes could cause the PCM to incorrectly adjust line pressure. When an upshift is initiated, a number of contingencies, such as throttle position, transmission temperature, and vehicle speed, are checked in order to determine if the actual shift time is valid to compare to a calibrated desired shift time. If all the contingencies are met during the entire shift, then the shift is considered valid and the adapt function may be utilized if necessary.
Once an adaptable shift is identified, the PCM compares the actual shift time to the desired shift time and calculates the difference between them. This difference is known as the shift error. The actual shift time is determined from the time that the PCM commands the shift to the start of the engine RPM drop initiated by the shift. If the actual shift time is longer than the calibrated desired shift time, a soft feel or slow engagement, then the PCM decreases current to the pressure control (PC) solenoid in order to increase line pressure for the next, same, upshift under identical conditions. If the actual shift time is shorter than the calibrated desired shift time, a firm engagement, then the PCM increases current to the PC solenoid in order to decrease line pressure for the next, same, upshift under identical conditions.
The purpose of the adapt function is to automatically compensate the shift quality for the various vehicle shift control systems. It is a continuous process that will help to maintain optimal shift quality throughout the life of the vehicle.
Clearing Transmission Adaptive Pressure (TAP)
Transmission adaptive pressure (TAP) information is displayed and may be reset using a scan tool.
The adapt function is a feature of the PCM that either adds or subtracts line pressure from a calibrated base line pressure in order to compensate for normal transmission wear. The TAP information is divided into 13 units, called cells. The cells are numbered 4 through 14. Each cell represents a given torque range. TAP cell 4 is the lowest adaptable torque range and TAP cell 14 is the highest adaptable torque range. It is normal for TAP cell values to display zero or negative numbers. This indicates that the PCM has adjusted line pressure at or below the calibrated base line pressure.
Updating TAP information is a learning function of the PCM designed to maintain acceptable shift times.
It is not recommended that TAP information be reset unless one of the following repairs has been made:
- Transmission overhaul or replacement
- Repair or replacement of an apply or release component, clutch, band, piston, servo
- Repair or replacement of a component or assembly which directly affects line pressure
Resetting the TAP values using a scan tool will erase all learned values in all cells. As a result, the PCM will need to relearn TAP values. Transmission performance may be affected as new TAPs are learned. Learning can only take place when the PCM has determined that an acceptable shift has occurred. The PCM must also relearn TAP values if it is replaced.
#7
08-30-2011, 08:15 AM
Thanks for that info. So according to the repair list it actually IS recommended that TAP is reset after this kit is installed (as it does in fact change line pressure because of the TCC apply valve leakby it repairs).
Also, I found the coolant leak, it is in fact the intake manifold gasket (no big surprise there) got home from the store and smelled it again. crawled around the engine with my lil flashlight and there's just a small amount of coolant in the valley between the VC and manifold. Guess it's time to break out the chiltons manual and order the gaskets. one more expense i really can't afford. Ah well such is life. Guess i gotta pick up coolant too (which sucks because it's got fresh coolant in her as of 2 weeks ago).
Thanks for the help guys. Keep it comin!
Also, I found the coolant leak, it is in fact the intake manifold gasket (no big surprise there) got home from the store and smelled it again. crawled around the engine with my lil flashlight and there's just a small amount of coolant in the valley between the VC and manifold. Guess it's time to break out the chiltons manual and order the gaskets. one more expense i really can't afford. Ah well such is life. Guess i gotta pick up coolant too (which sucks because it's got fresh coolant in her as of 2 weeks ago).
Thanks for the help guys. Keep it comin!
#8
08-30-2011, 08:38 AM
Better to find the problem now than to have it go really sideways on you and dump coolant into the oil!
Just make sure to get the updated Felpro gasket set with the metal frame.
Fel-pro MS98002T - as you can see, it includes everything that the previous set does plus the valve cover gaskets and seems to have a different overmolded o-ring material. Not sure, but looks to have a metal cage as well.
**Just did some more reading up on these and they sure do have a metal cage. These would be what I would recommend getting!! All of the short comings of the factory gasket have been addressed in thiis gasket. You should have no other problems after correctly repaired with these gaskets!
Just make sure to get the updated Felpro gasket set with the metal frame.
Fel-pro MS98002T - as you can see, it includes everything that the previous set does plus the valve cover gaskets and seems to have a different overmolded o-ring material. Not sure, but looks to have a metal cage as well.
**Just did some more reading up on these and they sure do have a metal cage. These would be what I would recommend getting!! All of the short comings of the factory gasket have been addressed in thiis gasket. You should have no other problems after correctly repaired with these gaskets!
#9
08-30-2011, 08:51 AM
Thanks, Found it on rockauto for 65.xx shipped with a 5% discount (available locally for $90). Any idea on the amount of time i need to allot for this repair? I looked at it in the chilton manual and it SEEMS fairly straightforward albeit a PITA but no mention of time on there.
Edit: I guess it was about time for the IM gasket to go anyway, seems mine lasted longer than most (144,xxx mi)
Edit: I guess it was about time for the IM gasket to go anyway, seems mine lasted longer than most (144,xxx mi)
#10
08-30-2011, 08:55 AM
The last time I did it, it took just under 3 hours, but I've also replaced quite a few of them and have all the little tricks down. Plan for a weekend and a case of beer! One tip I can give you is that you should resist the urge to bend the fuel lines up and out of your way. You have to disconnect them at the back of the engine, then you can leave them attached to the intake manifold & spider.
By far the best walk-thru of this repair has to be the D-Tips.com article. Search for 'd-tips.com' here and you should find a link. I believe that there also is a tech article created by another member as well.
By far the best walk-thru of this repair has to be the D-Tips.com article. Search for 'd-tips.com' here and you should find a link. I believe that there also is a tech article created by another member as well.