Noticed a pretty good leak in the vicinity of my lower intake. I suspected the gaskets, as I know they're prone to failing, and I have no idea if they've ever been done on my truck. With the engine running and up to temp, I could actually see coolant bubbling out around the front coolant crossover on the lower intake.

As I started removing it, i realized the leak didn't appear to be from the gasket, but from a crack in the manifold itself. It's right on the backside of the front coolant crossover, toward the passenger side. If you look in the coolant port right there, I think I can see the crack.

I searched, and only found one thread dealing with this, and it was a crack around a bolt hole.

How common is this? Or is it even possible? The truck has 289k miles on it. I'm gonna clean it up with some degreaser this weekend, and inspect it further. I'm thinking if it really is cracked, that I can grab one from a junkyard, and hope it isn't cracked, also? I don't think this is a common problem, so my chances should be pretty good.

Thanks for any insight or thoughts!

 

those crappy plastic ones on the ford 4.6 engines are known for cracking and actually sell them aftermarket. your metal one might be a different story,
Intake Manifolds - Chevy - 6-Cylinder - RPM Air-Gap Series - Edelbrock, LLC.


edelbrock shows some for the v6 but almost looks like they have one for everyone year but yours. but maybe I didn't look long enough

 

Aftermarket would be pretty sweet, but unfortunately, the budget dictates something along the lines of junkyard! Lol. I would like to use this as an opportunity to swap over to the newer style fuel injection, and get rid of all that poppet valve nonsense, but I don't think that's gonna happen

 

Well, it's finally all back together, and running. I had a terrible time getting the distributor lined up right.

But now I've got a flashing check engine light, and a misfire on #6. It runs, and is driveable, just a little rough at idle. I double checked the spark plug wires.

I know there's supposed to be some kind of re learn done after the dist is pulled, but I don't have a scan tool capable of it. Would this be the cause for the misfire? And if anyone has had to have a shop do it, roughly how much did it cost?

 

most relearns are done by just pulling the battery for a few minutes, dont recall there being anything for s10s after distributors. possible the wire could have broke or got ripped when messing with it

 

Ok, I'll give that a try. They mentioned something about having to have one done in the "EDI engine timing" thread. The truck is running fine, at least around town. I haven't fully vetted it yet! Still the code for #6 misfire, though. I might try to swap wires and maybe plugs with another cylinder to see if it changes, to rule out the simple stuff.

 

Well, all isn't good. Drove it to work for the first time since the repair. Did good around town, as soon as I hit the highway, the temp just kept climbing. Up to 250 before I had to shut it down and bum a ride. Back to the drawing board.

Anyone got any ideas? Haven't had a chance to search yet

 

Air in the cooling system?

 

Make sure you didn't bend a pin on the big connector that goes to the injectors. I had the same fault and this is what it ended up being.

 

A coincidence ?


My 2000 started flowing coolant out faster than I could keep the radiator filled.


Not a hose Oil still looks clear Maybe I caught it in time.


What is a typical shop repair running these days ?


Thanks


Don in Huntsville