I'm attaching a comparison chart of the all aluminum radiators I was able to find for sale.

A few things to note:

• All except one have provision for the oil-cooling lines
• Few appear to be made in the US
• Many do not have much extra surface area for the cooling fins over the OEM style

 

Great info!

If I could add a tidbit, it would be I have seen that tow button that was referred to earlier, but only in Jimmys....SLS, Envoy, Diamond Edition, etc. Center console, behind the shifter, before the arm rest.

 

Oh, I forgot to report what I ended up doing.

It was a tough choice but I ended up going with the radiator from Engineered Cooling Products (https://www.speedcooling.com/Chevy-S...ing-Tubes.html) I chose it because it was purportedly made in the US and had a very large surface area to the tubes in the core. (I tried to quantify this in my spreadsheet in the post # 31.)

Engineered Cooling Products radiator


The downside to this radiator is that it did not come with a provision for the oil cooler lines.

I looked into installing an external air-cooled oil cooler but the price for parts alone quickly got above $300 if not $350 for a quality installation. So as a substitute I discovered aluminum versions of the internal (to the radiator) oil coolers. (https://www.thermprocesses.com/produ...oducts_id=2595)

Aluminum in-tank oil cooler



New (top) and OEM (bottom) in-tank oil coolers



The advantage of these in-tank oil coolers is that they would accept the OEM fittings and no new hoses would be needed. However it means that the radiator I purchased would have to be modified. I am having a local heavy-duty machine shop cut out the rear facing panel on the left side and TIG weld the cooler to a new cover and then the cover over the hole. (The oil cooler being aluminum will allow for the TIG welding and have a very high thermal conductivity.)

I did look into using those DIY brazing rods for aluminum (e.g. Muggy Weld) but having had no experience with them (not to mention any sort of welding) I thought that I might as well go with an expert. However, from what I could tell, they might have worked.

 

probably you already replaced it, but I got Auto Zone with limited life time warranty, biggest issue I had was borrowing the tool from a fried 14 miles to town to undo he tranny lines, and the head ache for me was the Dang bottom super fine threaded tranny line, if not line up perfectly wont screw in..i spent 5 hrs &&^%&* with that one line.. no issue since got it done..

 

So, have you had a chance to install it yet? How do you like it so far? I like this option for my own Blazer, especially since I don't need any oil cooler lines. I'd love to read your review first, though.

 

Christine, I have been following your search for the best replacement radiator with interest. Whether you live in the hot S.E. or S.W. USA or tow, you are going to be needing one of these sooner or later. Especially since our SUV's are 14 years old or older. I like your logical approach to the search for a OEM style rad. and made in the US qualifications. I liked the in the rad. with the internal oil cooler, so was disappointed you couldn't find one with all your qualifications. The solution is good because of the no new hoses and the OEM fittings. The down side is the custom work with TIG welding for a cover for the new oil cooler. Hope your design is implemented successfully and that you get some good photo's. Please share your progress. Thanks and good luck, Jim

 

Tom,

No I have not gotten the radiator back from the shop yet. I expect it by the end of the upcoming week. I might or might not get to installing it next weekend. I know I'll have to do a bit of modification to the radiator mounting because the new one is a bit deeper (front to back) but I don' expect too much difficulty.

I'll do my best to document the differences and installation. Something I will also try to remember to do is measure the volume difference in the OEM and new radiator for purposes of documenting the total capacity for future drains and flushing.

What I've been working on now is confirming the fittings for the trans and engine oil cooling lines. The ECP radiator uses an internal transmission cooling line fitting that is one-size smaller than the OEM. I took a while to track them down but I finally found the appropriate adapters. The OEM screw-in fittings into which the transmission oil lines go into are 3/8 inverted flare fittings with 5/8"-18 threads whereas the fittings for the in tank transmission oil cooler on the new radiator are for an 5/16 inverted flare fitting with 1/2" -20 threads. So I had to find was the following: A male inverted flare 5/16" (1/2"-20) to female inverted flare 3/8" (5/8"-18) adapter. I was scouring the internet trying to confirm what I wanted and at times losing hope and then as I started to narrow in on my quarry, I found that Autozone has it: BFG-18C. LOL

Because I also have a supplemental transmission cooler, I have to find an inverted flare fitting to go into the new transmission cooler that has a barb fitting to accept the hose. This will not be a problem as I can get also what I need from Autozone or NAPA.

Because I'm using what would be an OEM replacement for the oil cooler, the original fittings will work. So there is that upside.

I'll do my best to document the differences and installation. Something I will also try to remember to do is measure the volume difference in the OEM and new radiator for purposes of documenting the total capacity for future drains and flushing.


Jim,

As I've reported elsewhere, when I do tow I'm going up places that will tax most any rig. My closest sailing area requires a 1,800' climb home over only 6 miles (out of Lewiston Idaho) often when the temperature (at least in the valley) is over 90'F. There is also a long grade in the middle of Washington state about half-way between home and where I sail in Puget Sound (part of what we call the greater Salish Sea) (at Vantage WA) that has about 1,900' rise in 10 miles. Both can be brutal. This is why I recommend that people install a transmission fluid temperature meter. I use one that plugs into my OBD socket from UltraGauge.

I'll be sure to share what I learn!

 

Christine,
Thanks for the detailed report. Fortunately, I don't NEED a new radiator at this time, but it seems like a great upgrade. I'm especially interested in hearing how it fits and how it cools. I have a custom aluminum top radiator bracket (because I'm running electric fans and don't need a shroud) that will hopefully not require a lot of modification.

 

Bit of an update on the new radiator.

I had the aluminum OEM-style in-tank oil cooler welded into the tank. I got it back today. The cost was $150. If any of you are good at TIG welding or brazing you could save money if you do it yourself. I borrowed a radiator pressure tester to check the welds and it was all OK.

Next steps are to install the new fittings for the transmission and oil cooler lines (a quick check showed they fit) and then install it. I expect some customizing of the mounting might be necessary.

(EDIT: I forgot to add that I purchased a radiator cap with a zinc sacrificial electrode to prevent electrolysis.)

Here some pictures.

Whole radiator with panel that was removed and replaced.



Close up of replacement and side view of removed panel.

 

Thanks for the update. Can't wait to hear how well it cools.