OK, am I screwed? It looks like I have the 6- bolt cv. Oil is everywhere. Here's a pic:

 

OK, I popped the CV back in and everythings working fine except oil is leaking out of the joint where it slipped out. Is there a seal that supposed to hold the oil in? I'm hoping it's easy to replace.

 

T DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER/FRONT AXLE; T DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER/FRONT AXLE (CHEVROLET X88/G.M.C. Z88); T DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER/FRONT AXLE (CHEVROLET/G.M.C.); T(03-53) DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER/FRONT AXLE (CHEVROLET X88/G.M.C. Z88); T(06-16) DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER/ I do not see one on this but I think there is a form of anerobic sealent they use. Not sure what your supposed to use. When I replaced thrust washers up there put in black permatex and it has not leaked.

 

Well, I just tore everything apart, what fun! Anyways the cv axle feels shot. The hub side of the joint rotates freely but the side near the differential is really bound up. While I have everything apart I'm going to replace the ball joints, tie rod end and the bump stops that disintegrated 10 years ago. I got the oil seal out of the diff, it is definitely torn. The seal is pressed into a plate that I'm hoping the dealer will have.

 

What year is your blazer? I have a 99 and you can get that seal already pressed in the plate. The plate comes with a seal and no sealant is required. I attached a picture of mine.

I really dont know why mine popped out but it was a rebuilt unit and only installed for about 6mo. Rebuilt units can have worn splines , etc. The shaft and ends are not new when you get a rebuilt shaft. NAPA sells new or rebuilt.

 

Yep, that's the part I need. I had the cv axles replaced with some aftermarket ones and they only lasted about 29k miles. The original axles lasted about 190k miles! I'm going to price out some oem axles and order that seal. Did you replace the needle bearing on that side when you had it apart? Mine looks ok but I'm thinking about taking it out while I have it apart.

 

If it were me, I would go ahead and replace the needle bearing while everything's apart. It's added insurance as they do wear out and it's only a 10-15 dollar part from the dealer.

You will need a small 3 jaw slide hammer bearing puller to yank the old one out- I think they rent these at any local AZ (p/n 33627026). Just be sure the jaws are just tight enough to grab onto the bearing, but not enough to scour the bore. Also, note the press depth of the old bearing before pulling it out- this will tell you how far to press the new one in.

Tip- It helps to put the new bearing in a freezer for an hour or two before installation as it makes them go in easier. Pack a little wheel bearing grease in the needles and your ready for reassembly.

 

OK, went to the dealer, the 96 and older cv axles and seal cover are discontinued. The 97+ axles and covers are still available... I was able to find a 1996 cover online for about $20 but looking back I bet the 97+ covers may interchange. I got a reman axle from NAPA- wow what a difference, my old one was TRASHED! Dealer had the needle bearing for the front diff but it was $32 and needs to be ordered. Thanks for the help Joey, I'm going to try and find the bearing for cheaper.

 

OK, went to the junkyard and pulled an axle stub that had no play... With that and a new bearing I should be good for years to come!

Question:
I grabbed a bravada axle and tube to do the 1-piece axle swap... The parts I got came from a 97 with a slip-in style cv joint, mine is a 6 bolt. Can I just use a new style cv to complete the swap? From what I can tell the side that fits into the diff is the same for both. Is the wheel bearing side the same?

 

For posterity: The driver side differential bearing and seal is different from 96 to 97+. The 97+ have a larger inner diameter to accomodate the larger cv axle diameter. I'm planning on using an original-style cv on my drivers side and convert to the 97+ bravada one-piece axle and cv on the passenger side.